Trip Reports

Mongolia Climber expeditions 2007

Written by Leader Dave Walsh, September 2007

Altai Climber Expeditions – 5 to 20 August and 19 August to 3 September 2007

London - Moscow, Moscow - Ulaan Baatar, is a lengthy flight but does give fine views of the Russian Steppes and the vastness of the Mongolian landscape. We were soon to be bouncing through this in Russian jeeps, marvelling at the ruggedness of the jeeps and the skill of the drivers, heading for the alpine peaks of the Altai mountains.

Before this there was the Ulaan Baatar experience. We were met at the airport by a smiling Doorjo, a language teacher, who was to act as our city guide. A 30 minute drive to the hotel, followed by a welcome shower and a couple of hours rest before being taken on a brief tour of the city's main attractions and lunch at a terraced restaurant. A leisurely start (12:30pm) was followed by the 3 hour flight to Olgi in a Fokker 50. Again the vastness of the Mongolian landscape can be seen from a lower altitude, with the white spots (Gers) and light brown track lines linking the herdsmen's summer Gers to their neighbours in stark contrast to the vast space of the Steppe.

We arrived in Olgi and spent our first night in a Ger, these are circular structures made from a wooden frame and covered with a heavy felt. Normally they have a central stove, burning wood or yak dung and are lined with decorative wall hangings and carpeted floor. The food, cooked by Sangadash, was a foretaste of what was to become the best food most of us had experienced on any trip.

The next day our 3 jeeps took us to the roadhead and Tavan Bogd Park gate in an exciting 6 hour drive which included several river crossings. That night we had dinner in the Ger of the Park Ranger's family, who were very welcoming. Yaks, goats and horses are plentiful in these remote valleys, where eagles and kites soar in search of the numerous Marmot and ground squirrel.

We set off for base camp followed by the 3 camels which carried our equipment and food. These animals are very efficient load carriers, and can carry up to 300kg! A 4 hour walk through terrain that resembles Scotland's Cairngorms led to a beautiful site next to the glacier that leads to Kuiten, Mongolian Altai’s highest mountain. A good supply of fresh water, grass to pitch tents on, a Ger with stove to eat in, fantastic views of the surrounding peaks with horses, camels and the occasional (friendly) dog, make this an idyllic base camp. Next day we spent a productive day on the glacier, revising our crampon and glacier travel skills.

On the first of the two trips, high camp was a 7 hour glacier walk with heavy packs to camp on the ice next to a prominent rognon. We left for Kuiten at 05:30 in fine weather and after 4 hours we all stood on the summit, but not for long, as a strong and very cold wind blowing out of China saw us turning back to high camp. A wild night at high camp, followed by an equally wild dawn meant an attempt on Nairandal was abandoned and an exciting descent of the glacier where several crevasses were examined in detail! The rope technique practised earlier came into its own during the 3 hour descent to base camp. Light snow at base camp had fallen but this didn't detract from the joy of having snatched the summit before the weather changed. A couple of days and some fine walks on nearby peaks ended our time in the Altai mountains.

Two weeks later the conditions were completely different, with two foot of new snow meaning that high camp was placed lower on the lateral moraine and the attempt on Kuiten had to be abandoned quite high on the mountain, below the steep summit slopes, in favour of an almost guaranteed ascent of Nairandal. Days were beautifully sunny but the mountain nights were made dramatic by thunder and lightening and more dumps of snow. However, this did not stop us making further ascents of Malchin and Sarimsak Tobe in glorious sunshine.

A visit to an Eagle hunter, more fantastic hospitality and food, helped us on the journey back to Olgi. All agreed this was a unique and memorable trip in a remote and unspoiled area of the world.

Dave Walsh, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

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