Trip Reports

Mongolia Climber - 20 Aug to 4 Sep '06

Written by Leader Ian Barker, September 2006

The amazing thing about this expedition is that not only are you visiting a country that is seldom explored by Westerners, you are visiting a different century! We had two comfortable nights in the Palace Hotel in Ulaan Baatar to recover from our jet lag and also undertook an acclimatisation hike to the top of Mount Tsetseguun (2,256m) – a sacred mountain in the lush pine-covered Terelj National Park, only a few hours from U.B.

We felt refreshed and excited as we boarded our propeller-engined aircraft for the 3.5 hour flight to Mongolia’s remote western province and the Altai Mountains. After our spectacular flight over Mongolia’s western desert, we were met in Olgii by the rest of our support staff and 5 Russian-made jeeps that would transport us to the park gates of the Altai Tavan Bogd National Park. The jeep journey was an expedition in itself as we immersed ourselves in the dramatic mountain scenery - and I do mean immersed as river crossing followed river crossing, but the Russian jeeps were more than up to the job. We arrived at the park gate just before dusk and managed to erect our tents as night and the first raindrops of the approaching storm began to fall. The next day we awoke to a dusting of snow and loaded our Bactrian Camels (2 humped variety) and set off for our 4.5hr hike to base camp at the foot of the Potaniin Glacier, at just over 3,000m. The expedition members commented on the similarity in scenery to that of the Scottish Cairngorms – similar that is if you ignored the 4,000m plus peaks that periodically revealed themselves from behind the wall of mist that shrouded the glacier.

Base camp was an amazing place with a dramatic back-drop of the peaks we had traveled so far to climb. We had some wonderful nights in the felt-clad Kazakh Gers sat around a glowing Mongolian pot-bellied stove that seemed to be made from half an oil can and some old biscuit tins, swapping stories and some very bad jokes. Brian Blessed entertained us into the wee hours with some wonderful tales about Everest and his encyclopaedia like knowledge of movies. Stormy weather and snow in the mountains kept us at base camp for 2 more days, but we put the time to good use with acclimatisation hikes and climbed a flat-topped peak behind the camp at 3,600m. The day we left base camp was cold and clear with fantastic views of the mountains. It remained pleasantly cold as we made our way up the snow-covered glacier carrying full packs. We made camp at a sheltered spot just over 3,600m. The following morning a cold pre-dawn start saw us making good progress despite soft snow towards the day’s objective of summiting Mount Khuiten (Mongolia’s highest peak). All team members were moving well when we stopped at a col at 4,100m on the Chinese border. The weather was perfect and we really believed the summit was in the bag. Unfortunately 100m above the col we encountered dangerous slab avalanche conditions and a retreat had to be called. The Altai mountains are so remote, it is no place to push your luck.

The next day’s departure was delayed by bad weather and snow showers, but by 06:30hrs things were looking up and shortly after sunrise, we set off for our 2.5hr ascent of Mount Nairandal (4,180m). Jason, our local guide, did a great job of breaking trail through the soft snow and we reached the top of this special summit without too many problem – special because at this summit the boundaries of China, Russia and Mongolia meet. For this reason it also takes the name of Friendship Peak. We took turns at running round the pole that marks the summit – (3 countries in 2 seconds, not bad going!). We then stood back to admire the jaw-dropping mountain scenery that this lofty peak affords. In all directions we could see snow-covered mountains, mostly unclimbed. Dubious looking weather coming in from the south-west put a stop to our celebrations and we reluctantly left the summit for our high camp. The sqawl hit about half an hour out of ABC with visibility dramatically reduced to about 50m – this was a timely reminder of what a hostile place this could be and a sample of the sort of weather the previous Jagged Globe group had experienced. Fortunately, once back at camp the storm blew itself out and we were able to break camp and descend the glacier in relatively good weather.

Our final day at base camp was put to good use with a cold and very windy ascent of Mount Malchin, just over 4,000m - it was obvious the weather was on the change. Still, a nice tick for the end of the climbing phase of the expedition.

"The camels are coming and its snowing" – how often do you hear those words in the same sentence?! It was indeed snowing and it left camels and tents covered with several inches of snow by morning. By breakfast things had changed and bright sunshine with wonderful views accompanied us on our walk out to the National Park entrance.

We ate our last meal prepared by Sandagash, our cook and veteran of previous Jagged Globe Altai expeditions. As always the meal was delicious – this time we shared it with the park ranger and his family in their colourful Ger. As we packed up for the last time, there was a real feel of the approaching winter and the local herding families were also preparing to leave the high valley for warmer climes. But our adventure was not yet over, we still had the dramatic jeep journey back to Ollgii – this time stopping to visit eagle hunters with their magnificent hunting birds. We also visited an ancient petroglyphs site - these stone markings are reputed to be over 5,000 years old. We then had time to visit several Gers along the way for tea and snacks, receiving warm and hospitable welcomes from the local herdsmen.

Once back in U.B. there followed a whistle-stop tour of the capital with many fine restaurants along the way – one of the highlights being a cultural evening of Mongolian folk music and throat singing. So impressed were the group that they too broke out into spontaneous attempted throat-singing on the steps of the theatre, much to the amusement of the locals (I can’t help feeling if we got back together, there’s definitely a recording contract in there somewhere!)

This was an enormously enjoyable trip with a wonderful group atmosphere and camaraderie. What a pleasure it was to find ourselves as the only group on the mountain. The vibrant Mongolian culture has got to be experienced to be believed. Enthusiastic sports staff added greatly to our success. Bolortuya, our interpreter and fixer was outstanding. Sandagash and Gina produced ample and appetising food throughout the trip and Jason, our hardworking local guide all contributed to making this a trip that will live with us all for a long time to come. It was one of the best trips I’ve had the pleasure of leading.

Ian Barker, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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