Trip Reports

Saribung Peak and Upper Mustang 2017

On the summit of Saribung Peak
Trip Report

Written by Leader Harry McAulay, November 2017

The first trip by Jagged Globe to the remote Saribung Peak via Upper Mustang has finished successfully with all in the party getting to the top to enjoy some great views of the Himalayas.

Jesper from Denmark and I were fortunate to have with us on the trip two locals from Mustang who were able to animate the landscape we passed through with their local knowledge.

Mustang is a fascinating place, how long it will retain its way of life is difficult to say, as the young men of the district all seem to wish to head for the lights and rewards of the urban areas. However, the trek, which we called the holiday phase until we got to Luri Gompa is fascinating. During the trek you will see the footprint of Guru Rinpochen in his many manifestations; from the caves at Chele, to the Ranchung  Cave, which he shared with Henrich Herrar, to his slaying of the Demon at Dhakmar. Lo-Manthang is the  walled 14th Century  capital of Mustang and contains three significant Gompas all of which are a must see. We did this accompanied by a monk who was a friend of our Sirdar, who gave us a unique insight into monastic life and was also very informed with respect to the history of the Gompas.

The Mountain stage of the trip takes you into what for Nepal must be one of its most sparsely populated regions, as it is a blank on the map as far as villages are concerned. Once you leave Luri Gompa one is into big mountain country, which is dry and very barren; although you do see the odd patches of vegetation were there are water courses fed from the snow fields.

High camp is gained by crossing a glacier and you camp on a strip of glacial moraine. the following day you see Saribung Peak for the first time and it is from the pass at 6000m that you ascend what is a tantalising close summit peak. However, those 300m of ascent will take there toll, especially if you are not light enough to walk over the surface crust as neither of us were. The summit has its rewards, which are the most stunning of views.

Down and then its the long post summit trek to the tents, which will come; although not as quickly as you think that you deserve. On the route down there is a a strange orange dome shaped rock, don’t take this as the tents appearing you’ll be disappointed.  

The next few days as you descend from the mountain to the village of Koto the vegetation and the scenery change dramatically and it is all stunning. At Koto we registered for the last time with the police and then headed off to the Petunia Hotel for a well deserved beer. Tomorrow it would be the start of our journey back by vehicle, but the sense of accomplishment and the feeling of euphoria from our great journey were at that time ours to savour.

My thanks go to Jesper for being such a great companion throughout and to the staff, especially Chhimi and Lhendup for all of their insights into the life of the Mustang people. Plus the porters and kitchen staff for their endless energy and good humour. This trip is a great way to see Mustang, together with having a unique mountain experience.


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