Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 2 April to 1 May 2010

Written by Leader Terry Moore, May 2010

An exceptional season of fine dry weather throughout most of the expedition saw lean but safe conditions on Mera Peak, Island Peak, and the spectacular Amphu Labtsa pass. Eight enthusiastic and excited members and myself set off with Sherpa’s, cook staff and porters from Lukla airstrip to start our journey through the Makalu-Barun National Park and then into the Khumbu area of the Sagarmatha National Park.

After our exhilarating flight to the Lukla airstrip we were soon surrounding by snowy mountains that provided a magnificent backdrop to our first days trek to Poyan. Our trek through forested slopes over the next few days gave our first glimpse of Mera Peaks impressive south face, before dropping into the Hinku valley. Remaining dry and hot we took our first rest day at Chunbu Kharka at 4200 metres.

Our steep descent through the flowering rhododendron forest into the Hinku valley took us away from the lush foothills and towards the approach camps of Mera Peak. We took a rest day at Khare (5100m) to help us acclimatize, and also used this day to practice with crampons and ice axes on the nearby Mera glacier before heading up to our base camp the next day. Our porters and staff were keen to cross the Mera la and set up base camp and soon had camp set up before we arrived. That night we celebrated Elaine’s’ birthday with a magnificent pizza, followed by a surprise birthday cake (her best ever birthday). Morale was high and the next day we ascended to high camp on Mera Peak, arriving there before the afternoon cloud came in. With glimpses of Makalu, Kusum Kangguru and Kantega we settled down to an exposed campsite at 5800 metres to prepare for an early start on Mera Peak the following day.

Another fine day and departing at 3.30am we were rewarded with excellent views of the Everest and Makalu ranges as the sun began to rise in the east behind Kanchenjunga. Arriving in two groups on the summit the first being led by our sirdar – Ang Dawa and the second by myself, Elaine, Mark, Fern, Andrew, Anthony, Rae, Karyn all celebrated a calm and cloudless summit success. Unfortunately Malcolm retired at 6200 metres, but a magnificent effort. After plenty of hero photographs were taken we descended all the way to base camp, then on down to our next campsite at Kongma Dingma (big rock) for a well deserved rest day. Rae had to be escorted down the mountain with assistance from Mark and myself due to her limited sight from an eye injury caused by a flaying rucksack strap at high camp.

With high spirits and an improving eye from Rae we started our trek up the Hongu valley towards the Amphu Labsta pass. More stunning peaks including Peak 41, Baruntse and Chamlang raised everyone’s morale as we headed up the valley. Only one other group was seen in the valley – a small Iranian expedition, who coincidentally had a doctor, and who was very helpful in providing additional medicines and a medical opinion for Rea’s eye. The Amphu Labsta pass and its small preceding glacier added drama to an already spectacular landscape of jagged peaks and passes. The porters made easy work of the pass and a short abseil and steep descent into the Imja valley saw us all safely in our Island Peak base camp for another rest day. With continuing good weather we all ascended to high camp on Island Peak on 22nd April and camped amongst rocks with other groups preparing for the summit push.

Another early start allowed all but Malcolm to ascend in darkness from 3am up the rocky slopes towards the small glacier below the summit ridge. We managed to ascend the fixed ropes to the summit ridge before more parties arrived and enjoyed the final ridge walk and summit in relative isolation. With outstanding views of Am Dablam and Nuptse we celebrated our success on top and safely abseiled down fixed ropes set up by our Sherpa’s before descending down to the glacier below. Continuing on down to high camp we met with Malcolm before moving on down to camp at the small village of Chhuckhung. With our main objectives over all that remained was to enjoy the trek out to Lukla via Namche Bazaar along the main Everest trail taking in the Buddhist monastery at Thyangboche on route. With a threat of rain and thickening cloud we managed to fly out from Lukla on 29th April and end our journey in the Himalayan Mountains. A great experience and with great company to conclude a magical expedition.

Terry Moore, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

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