Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 9 Oct to 7 Nov '09

Written by Leader Hannah Burrows-Smith, November 2009

Our trek, as with 4 other Jagged Globe trips that morning, began from Lukla. An exciting early morning flight, literally into the mountains, gained us so much altitude that our journey chose to descend and then climb the hills to the south and east of Lukla to enable our team to begin acclimatising well. Most of us had travelled from the lowlands of the UK and Ireland, and it was good to get used to 3000m never mind 6000m!

Off the beaten track almost immediately, travelling through villages, past monasteries and on into the Hinku Valley. With each day, a more significant glimpse of the snowy peaks we’d come to climb, peering out from the mountain jungle we walked amongst. And so, by the end of the first week our team had arrived in Tagnag (4250m) for a well earned rest day. The team comprised of Stu, Mark and Nicola, all hailing from different parts of Yorkshire, Rob and Roger, from the South-west, and Liam and Ray from Ireland. There was quite a mixture of experience between the guys; some had ascended higher peaks, some had done a number of routes in the Alps and Canadian Rockies. Together they shared the main goal of climbing Mera Peak, and from Tagnag, the view of this peak is immense; almost 2000m of height rise up to the snow-capped peaks above, and still we couldn’t actually see the summit!

That view was to appear over the next few days on our journey to the highest village of Khare (4900m); and from here we then travelled on up to the Mera La (5400m). Now, journeying on glacial terrain, we are amongst the higher peaks, and the final camp before the summit is the most spectacular, being perched on the side of a rocky peak. Thankfully it is out of the cold wind, but with a long drop below it made you think twice about going to the loo in the middle of the night!

The night was however cut short by the early start for the summit bid. Sunrise a couple of hours later slowly and stunningly brought into view the fine chain of 8000m peaks to the north; Cho Oyo, Everest and Makalu, with Kangchenjunga viewed to the east. The ascent of Mera was tough however, with the summit ridge being a welcome relief to all. 4 of the team chose to go for the short steep jug up fixed ropes to the highest point, (quite a tough route this year). 2 others were content with their efforts to get to the Central Summit while one did valiantly well, coping with a poorly stomach, got to 6300m before turning back. But this trip is not just about one mountain; would the team have enough stamina and oomph to continue with the next committing phase of the trip...?

The journey continued into the next valley eastwards, the Hongu. No tea houses here, nor chains of trekkers; feels remote and high, we’re always at least above 4800m. But a fine chain of high peaks pass us by as we walk up the valley. On the third day we meet with a `dead end’ and a choice of passes; the Amphu Labsta is the lowest and easiest (!) and Island Peak lies beyond. We have a fine day of weather and there is a good trail, so it is down to the significant colds, coughs and stomach bugs to test the will power of our team members. Amazing views all round; as a result of a slow-moving queue on the descent side of the pass, the team get to spend a good hour enjoying it in the sun! The descent down the other side is very impressive and potentially alarming; but it does come together, with one long abseil/lower and a windy trail over snow and rocks. It feels a long day by the time we arrive at camp, a long way below and the rest day the following day is very welcome.

There is one final challenge; Island Peak, and as at least 4 of the team have had challenges to their health in the past week, this objective could have seemed rather daunting. But off we all went the next day to High Camp (5450m), glad we were starting from here and not the dusty Base Camp some 400m below. Another early start but steadily height was gained up through the scrambly rock band and by sunrise the glacier was reached. From then on the route is spectacular and strenuous. 100m of jugging on fixed ropes up a steep snow/ice slope followed by 200m jugging along the fine crest to the miniscule summit – a true summit to which the whole team reached! A very good effort by all!

Again, the long descent to was felt by the whole team, and although the big abseils down the ice slope were particularly exciting and memorable, the rest was just `a long way’ to Chuckung. However, I believe the warmth of the tea house there, and at last comfortable seats (with backs!) possibly made the walk worth it!

After that the journey down through the Khumbu could be enjoyed. There were spectacular views of Ama Dablam (which we had, of course, circumnavigated) and of looking back to Everest and Lhotse. After our 3 weeks on camp, the delights of bakeries, bars and shopping were very welcome, particularly during our one whole day spent in Namche Bazaar (although perhaps not for the one team member trying change their flight home!) Soon we were back in Lukla, 24 days after leaving it, for another exciting flight and a welcome return to the splendid Summit Hotel in Kathmandu.

Hannah Burrows-Smith, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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