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Jagged Globe: The Seven Summits Programme

Sherpas on the summit of Everest in 2007

Written by Tom Briggs, October 2007

We are frequently asked, "How do I go about climbing the Seven Summits?" Here is an example four-year programme, assuming you start the challenge with no previous mountaineering experience. This programme might also be applied to someone who aspires to climb Everest. As an absolute minimum, we need to see Denali or equivalent on a climbing CV before we would accept someone onto our Everest expedition, and we always recommend attempting another 8,000er first.

The key phrase is 'mountaineering experience'. You may be an endurance athlete or Polar record holder, but this does not directly translate into performance at high-altitude and success on the Seven Summits. You need to become a mountaineer.

Year	Month	Region	Expedition / Course	Comments
Y1	January	Scotland	Introductory Winter Mountaineering	A first taste of mountaineering with Jagged Globe instructors who regularly lead expeditions to high altitude.
Y1	February	Africa	Kilimanjaro	The easiest of the Seven Summits is for many, their first experience of 'high altitude'.
Y1	June	Snowdonia	Scrambling	Scrambling ability - climbing efficiently over rocky ground - directly translates into alpine climbing, and is fundamental to becoming a mountaineer.
Y1	July	The Alps	Introductory Alpine Techniques + 3-day Mont Blanc Extension	A foundation course covering a wide range of skills for climbing on glaciated peaks. Western Europe's highest mountain can be attempted after a week of acclimatisation and preparation.
Y1	August	Europe (Russia)	Elbrus	The next 'easiest' Seven Summit after Kilimanjaro is a glaciated climb, often on icy slopes, which require good crampon technique.
Y2	March	Scotland	Winter Mountaineering	An intermediate course in Scotland, developing crampon, ice axe and rope skills to attempt climbs of Scottish grades II and III.
Y2	May	Nepal	Khumbu Climber	A mountaineering expedition to Nepal with ascents of three major peaks, two of which are over 6,000m. A chance to hone your skills in the shadow of Everest, giving you a psychological boost.
Y2	June	North America	Denali	Alaska's highest peak is notoriously tough. Bad weather and heavy load carrying is the name of the game. This is your first real test of mental and physical strength.
Y2	August	The Alps	Saas 4,000ers	More Alpine training on peaks graded Alpine PD or Scottish II/III.
Y2	Dec	Antarctica	Vinson	Vinson is not a high, nor a technically difficult mountain, but its remoteness requires you have climbed Denali (or similar) first. If the weather turns bad, expect temperatures as low as -35c.
Y3	February	South America	Aconcagua	Aconcagua is a tough peak, but with very little snow, it is not a logical stepping-stone towards Everest. It makes sense therefore to climb it on the way back from Vinson (whilst bearing in mind that flight delays in Antarctica are common).
Y3	May	Snowdonia	Rock Climbing	Hone your rock climbing skills and work on specialist techniques (jumaring a hanging rope), specifically in preparation for Carstensz Pyramid.
Y3	July	The Alps	Oberland 4,000ers	The hardest of our intermediate level courses is a physically tough week climbing 3 x 4,000m peaks graded Alpine PD-PD+. Yet more training to ensure your ropework is intuitive by the time you get to Everest.
Y3	August	Australasia	Carstensz Pyramid	A rock climb that requires you to be able to second British 'Hard Severe'. You need to be able to abseil and jumar a hanging rope.
Y3	October	Tibet	Cho Oyu	The 'mock exam' for Everest. The high camp is at 7,400m - much higher than you will have slept previously. You practice using the oxygen system. You refine your clothing and equipment. You climb with others who are going to Everest the following spring. Increase your chances on Everest by attempting the world's 6^th highest mountain first.
Y4	April-May	Asia (Nepal)	Everest	The Big One. The South Col route from Nepal remains the most attainable route on the mountain. Whilst success on the North Ridge has increased in recent years, the South Col route is technically easier and with the top camp at just under 8,000m, it means you spend less time in the 'Death Zone'. With experienced leadership, a strong Sherpa team, plenty of Oxygen, and just a little bit of luck on the day, you should have an excellent chance of summiting.

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