Articles

Mingma Sherpa Interview

Mingma Tseri - Mountain Sirdar, 17 summits

Written by Tom Briggs, October 2007

"We had the best Sherpa team on the mountain. Other teams followed our Sherpas�" - Barry Welsh, Everest 2006.

A Short Interview with Mingma Tsiri Sherpa

Born in 1970 in the Rolwaling Valley of Nepal, Mingma Sherpa has climbed Everest 12 times and 19 8,000m peaks in total. He and his brother Pasang are acknowledged as two of the strongest Sherpas on the south side of Everest. In 2007, they regularly carried loads for the Caudwell Xtreme Everest expedition (which Jagged Globe organised) from base camp to Camp 4 on the South Col, before descending to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm for their dinner. That�s 2,600 metres of ascent, which most climbers normally take 3 days to complete.

Jagged Globe Everest Base Camp Manager, Mara Larson gets under the skin of a man who can be accurately described as one of the world�s foremost athletes:

What is your favorite color?

Red

Favorite ice cream flavor?

Banana

Nickname?

Mingen. This is what they call me in Sherpa language because there are so many Mingmas in the family.

Favorite sport (beyond the obvious)?

Running. In the mornings sometimes I run two hours with Sherjan, another Nepali but a very big guy. Other exercise is also cutting vegetables in the kitchen for my wife.

Number of children?

Two boys, Lakpa and Nima. Both study in school and their favorite subject is basketball. I brought back one from the USA last autumn and they beat me. They take better shots and are faster than I am.

Favorite day on the mountain?

On Shishapangma there are lots of crevasses, but the summit day is easy climbing and you can see so much on the Langtang side.

Hardest day in the Himalayas?

On K2 with the Japanese in 1997. Route making was very, very hard and very technical. Before some Nepalis tried but no Nepalis summitted K2 before this. Myself and my three friends: Gelbu, Dowa Tashi, and Nawang were the first Nepali summitters of K2.

How many fingers and toes?

10 fingers, 10 toes and no frostbite. Only one gold tooth but not from climbing.

Do you do any training in the off season?

No, mostly just home working. Cooking with my wife I make Sherpa stew and soup. My best dish is mixed potato with tsampa and blue cheese sauce.

What�s your plan when you retire from the high mountain climbing?

We say in Sherpa, �Aram gane�. I just relax.

Does anyone else in your family climb?

Seven of us brothers: Ang Tsering, Nima Temba, Nima Gombu, Thundu, Pema, Pasang and me. Nima Gombu and me and Pasang are stronger technically from all the climbing. But all of us are in the Guinness Book of World Records- The Most Siblings to Climb Mt. Everest.

Do you remember your first climb?

My first climb was Everest, but not reaching the summit in 1990. I remember my first summit was Dhaulagiri in 1993. I was very happy. My first Everest summit was 1995 from north side (Tibet).

What was your first trip with Jagged Globe?

I joined with Simon Lowe together on the west ridge of Everest in 1992. Pema, by brother, was Sirdar and the only team on that route was the British team. Simon looked the same. Simon and also Steve Bell were very strong and also Kit Spencer. Kit Spencer had one backpack but with one strap which he put on his forehead. Always he looked just like a Sherpa!

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