Trip Reports

Colombian Mountaineer 14 Dec - 30 Dec '12

El Paso de Bellavista
Trip Report

Written by Leader Neal Short, January 2013

I would have loved to have stayed in Colombia and so the next best thing was to return for a further expedition which was going to be JG’s third Colombian Mountaineer as a second team had a successful trip in June. This year there was a full team of 12 members raring to go.

Moments & memories of the trip;

In Bogota, the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) with its incredible number of intricate gold pieces is most certainly a ‘must see’. Also this year we went to an art museum to see the ‘voluminous’ works of the famed Colombian artist, Botero. For lunch, Crepes & Waffles was a tasty treat on our first day and the delightful Quinua y Amaranto was a hit with on the last day.

On the journey to the mountains, it was appreciated that Juan-Carlos suggested stopping to see Puente de Boyaca, the important site of the battlefield in which Simón Bolívar defeated the Spanish in 1819. And also that he knows the journey so well not to miss the super bakery & cafe in Belén (a few members couldn't resist an extra ‘pollo empanada’!).

El Cocuy, a town of original colonial character and is good place to stop whilst acclimatising for the mountains. I found stepping out of the hostel before breakfast and seeing the locals wandering past in ponchos & sombreros (plus wellies) an enjoyable way to absorb the complete change of scene & pace from Bogota. Also about this time, the sun strikes the hillsides opposite the town and then gradually illuminates the plazas’ strikingly colourful salmon-pink church.

Upon getting into the mountains proper this year, JG had upgraded us to use A-framed lodges at Kanwara rather than camp and this worked very nicely especially having a warm shower, sofas/chairs and even a log fire! And like last year the acclimatisation hike worked well too for the whole team as it was again possible for those who were feeling strong to push on to climb a further peak at 4650m.

Once again the trek was tremendous with demanding terrain and memorable views on each day. In particular, the descent from our first pass Cimento Del Alto Del Padre were we came across tall Frailejons plants lining the route down to our lunch stop; the view from Boqueron de la Sierra pass (4707m) which brought a gasp of WOW(!) from one member upon reaching it and looking down the other side to see that evening's campsite; the sunrise on the sheer East face of Ritacuba seen from camp at Laguna Avellanal; the extraordinary Valle de los Cojines in glorious sunshine; and of course, the incredible mega-day crossing of Bellavista was again a major highlight. (Three members on this trip chose to walk out via the normal route - this day is shorter but not an easy option as it goes over two further passes. On some days this year, by the afternoon, we had slightly murky and at times, wet conditions but nothing which stopped the enjoyment.)

Ritacuba Blanco was unfortunately beyond us this year but we gave it a very good go. Myself & Juan-Carlos delayed our departure on a few occasions throughout the night due to strong winds and the team eventually left high-camp at around 5am. We ventured upwards across the initial rock slabs as snow came down and then, in bracing conditions reached the crampon point. It was all reminiscent of harsh day on The Ben. The visibility was exceedingly poor and Juan-Carlos did a sterling job route-finding up the glacier to an eventual ‘so-close’ high-point of 5280m.

The trip finished similarly to last year with a visit to the beautiful Villa De Leyva. Here we had time to relax & enjoy a leisurely stroll around the cobbled streets and have a spot of lunch at one of the many establishments around the huge famous Plaza Mayor. Some members made the worthwhile side-trip out to visit El Fossil – a 7m long Kronosaurus fossil.

Unlike last year we had a whole day in Bogota before the international flight at 9pm. This proved a major benefit for one member who was ill and two other members who had been delayed coming out from Europe. They managed to catch up with the main sight-seeing of cable car ride to Cerro Monsteratte and then the Gold Museum. Other members visited the Botero art museum and strolled around alongside Bogotarians enjoying their two week Christmas break. Three members took the chance for an optional visit to the impressive Salt Cathedral in the mines at Zipaquira.

Thanks to the team-members for their company and mucho gracias to the excellent in-country staff; first and foremost the ever-impressive and affable head-guide, Juan-Carlos; assistant guide Rafa; the cook staff - Marta, Julio & Domingo (they served up fantastic wholesome fresh food all trip); the strong porters and also the cheery driver, Wilson. And lastly, Christian who guided us on the city tour of Bogota.

I will use my comments that I emailed Tom for a website dispatch in January 2011 to summarize the expedition: “The El Cocuy Massif is a splendid compact mountain range with wonderful towns/scenery and the Colombian Mountaineer is a terrific itinerary. In terms of my previous South American trekking experiences (Huayhuash Circuit, Torres Del Paine Circuit & Santa Cruz Trek) the trek ranks highly, equally and I suppose right at the minute due to it being undeveloped, quiet and 'relatively remote' maybe better than those classics mentioned."

Neal Short Leader « | Next report »

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