Trip Reports

Bolivian Climber - 5 to 26 Jul '08

Written by Leader Tracey Wright, August 2008

Flying into La Paz, the world's highest capital city, we viewed some of the soaring imposing peaks that we were to become more familiar with, the Antiplano and the sprawling city of El Alto, and then the first glimpse of La Paz, where the city's buildings cling to the delicate unstable sides of a canyon spilling spectacularly downwards. Mark's cheerful smile grinned around at us all in anticipation of the trip ahead and his positive smile remained fixed on his face throughout the three weeks.

Our first week of acclimatisation began with an interesting walking tour of the centre of the city with our informative guide Theo. John in his enthusiasm to try local dishes discovered that llama may not have agreed with him and little did he realise at the time, that he would have plenty more opportunities to sample this delicacy. Off to Lake Titicaca and the small and enchanting town of Copacabana, where we discovered a tranquility and the Inca spiritual centre of the Isla del Sol. Mike, especially became so totally relaxed and so much at peace with the world that he slept the whole journey back on the boat. We viewed incredible sunsets from the two hills above the town, where professor Ian started to give us an insight into his incredible knowledge about the refraction of light, the conversion of light years into miles and his homemade contraption which allowed him to photograph the night sky in all its glory, including Jupiter's moons.

Off to the mountains of Condoriri, where we enjoyed a peaceful setting for a base camp surrounded by llamas, donkeys and viscachas, with the impressive snowy peaks towering above us. The group gelled together as we sat in the mess tent wrapped in down, and woolly hats, eating Becky's delicious soup, llama and fruit. Simon, inbetween his coughing, introduced us all to the delights of 'Chase the Ace', whilst at other times, Clive with his vetinary knowledge, discussed all the possible uses of a catheta. All the team enjoyed a mellow rocky walk to the summit of Point Austria, followed by a glacier practice day, and then the first snow summit. Pequeno Alpamayo is a dazzling pyramidal peak with a perfect steep, summit ridge for those mind blowing photographs. All of the team reached the snow dome, and almost all reached the true summit of 5400m, on yet another clear blue sky day.

The acclimatisation process was definately proving successful, and the team moved onto its next objective Huyuana Potosi. Here was a busy 6000m accessible summit with incredible views and imposing beauty. Brian entertained us all with his informative knowledge of Kentish towns and the merits of their populations, inclding the Isle of Sheppy. Clive, John, Andrew, Paul, Tony, Simon and Richard did incredibly well to reach the summit just in time for a radient red sunrise. Andrew found that his previous 'need for speed' whilst on P. Alpamayo was not such a great need afterall as he reached the 6000m mark and was more than content to plod along like the rest of us, phew! Whilst resting back in La Paz, Tony came up with a new 'safeguard the stomach' plan, involving cooking pasta in his hotel room and avoiding contact with any possible lurking bacteria in the local restaurants. Laura, meanwhile, was still proving to have the 'ultimate stomach of steel', but could it last for one more week?

Illimani, the 6439m giant overlooking La Paz, proved to be further away than it looked, with a wiggly woggly jeep ride of 3 or more hours through wild west Butch Cassidy country. Another spacious and tranquil setting for our base camp, followed by a rocky ridge to ascend to reach our snow camp at the Condor's Nest, and the team by this time had dwindled a little to eight. Richard had a particularly impressive start to his summit day in tripping headfirst over the breakfast tray, spilling porridge, jam and drinks, smashing the hot water urn beyond repair and getting himself completely jammed head down and crampons up! Despite this early energetic start to the day at 3am, Richard along with Andrew, Tony, Paul, John and Simon made it to the highest summit of Illimani by 9am. Well done you guys! And thanks to our committed, reliable and professional team of Bolivian and Ecuadorian guides, Rene, Roberto and Sebastien.

Back to La Paz for a quick shower and a sleep before heading off in two groups for a final day of activity. One group, 'the academics' went off to view the Tiwanaku ruins of a civilisation centred on the southern shores of Lake Titicaca constructed over 1000 years ago. Those with an adrenaline rush, headed for the 'World's most Dangerous road' by mountain bike. Paul, we discovered, found his real competitive nature as he blasted along up and downhill, always managing to arrive in 1st place!

What more could we ask for? Bolivia's friendly people, its rugged landscape, its incredibly reliable stable weather with one blue sky day after another, after another, and its magnificant mountains. We'll all savour our memories of those awesome snow aretes, superb sunsets, mellow times, hard breathless moments, and a great team who enjoyed fun times together.

Tracey Wright, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.