Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 5 April to 4 May '08

Written by Leader Mic Rofe, May 2008

Good weather helped us in achieving 100% success on Mera, a safe crossing of the Amphu Labsta, and all to the summit of Island Peak, who started up out of High Camp. But more importantly a great group was the catalyst for making this expedition a once in a lifetime Himalayan adventure.

Day 12, our tenth on trek and we are poised at Khare ready to pounce on Mera. Before the impending summit consumes all our thoughts and dominates our memories it is worth reflecting on our path to arrive here. A broad mix of ages, abilities, experience and personalities made up the group. What we shared from the start was a relaxed attitude, patience, sense of fun and after just a few days we felt like old friends and one big team.

It seemed just moments after laying down cutlery after a hot breakfast at the Summit Hotel that we had arrived in Lukla. We had THE fastest run through the airport shenanigans and a crystal clear flight.

From the peaceful monastery at Pangom we took the rugged Bamboo Route through to Khote. Though the least favourable in terms of acclimatisation it avoided the deep snow of the moment which would have been challenging, if not dangerous, for our porters to cross ( and us too!). By and large this route contours at around the 3,000m mark, though a fairly loose definition of contour is needed to encompass the many steep descents and ascents. Flowering rhodendrons, magnolias, lunch by beautifl rivers and a steamy camp where we were jammed in tight with the straight Mera team, our tents perched above them on terraces we labelled Bamboo Heights.

From the growing town of Khote we steadily gained height to Tangnag and a rest day. Coming up to the village we stopped by a tiny monastery in a cave, habitated by an old monk. He performed a Puja Ceremony for us to help keep us safe on the mountain. Mera put on a fine show later that day with a huge afternoon avalanche. The surroundings of beautiful peaks and a grassy camp nestled into the hillside at Dig Kharka really helped us feel that we had arrived in the Himalaya. Chris, who had climbed extensively at home and in the Alps and always wondered if it were really necessary to visit the Himalaya decided during this period that it most certainly was worth a visit. Of the day’s altitudes during acclimatisation he commented, “Matterhorn in the morning, Mont Blanc in the afternoon, not bad I suppose!”

Day 13, overnight snowfall meant that a rest day at 4,850m in Khare was more appealing than taking a break on the exposed Mera La. Big boots and crunching of crampons on ice made us feel like mountaineers as we moved over the Mera La. And huffing and puffing followed by heavy heads high altitude mountaineers! Our first night over 5,000m. Another “best day ever” for Lena. From the Mera La a short move to the Eyrie of High Camp (HC) and an airy toilet tent!

Day 16, and an early departure from our windy tents (inside and out). A cool, but quick ascent, just five hours from HC. I was a proud leader as a all of my team enjoyed one of the most panoramic summits in the Himalaya. We also shared the summit with most of the Mera Team who had been good company on the trek in. A quick “Hi” to Cathy and John from Ireland who have read some of my previous reports and asked to be mentioned in this one. Maybe see you on Huascaran or Aconcagua!

The level of effort required to climb Mera showed as bowed heads and dragging feet took us down more than a mile vertically to a misty camp in the Honku.

From the elation of standing on top of the highest trekking peak in Nepal our descent into the Honku and its sublime beauty brought an emotional low. Lena, whom all the staff referred to as Didi (Big Sister in Nepali – a sign of respect and possibly the proportions of her down jacket!), succumbed to High Altitude Cerebral Oedema. Working with Dr Jon (who was more than happy to put into practice the learnings from his Diploma In Mountain Medicine training), all the big guns were drawn to relieve her symptons: heavy duty painkillers, IM dexamethasone and the Portable Altitude Chamber. But due to the remoteness of the Honku, the need to cross a high pass of at least 5,400m to escape, evacuation by helicopter was essential.

Day 18, after an early start, was spent waiting, then in a flurry; just half an hour before the afternoon clouds closed in a tiny helicopter appeared, touched down and took off. Lena and best friend Alan were gone. It all seemed to happen in less time than it takes for a tear to well up and then roll away. Thank goodness for wrap-around RayBans...

The porters took their loads first, followed quickly by us. We stormed up the valley for two hours, faster than one should when trekking at 5,000m. We were lost in our own worlds; the Honku beautiful, but barren and lonely, as our team having formed so closely in two and a half weeks was now broken.

Day 19, walking up to the foot of the Amphu Labsta was our most beautiful day yet. Pretty lakes, sheer cliffs and stunning peaks. We picked out lines on Chamlang, an unknown peak and then up Baruntse – Awesome!

In exchange for Didi the helicopter had left us with fresh chicken. In parting Alan left us an Islay Single Malt. We relished both having been trekking for so long, though would have preferred Alan and Lena’s company.

Our day crossing the Amphu Labsta was one to cherish; as a mountaineer it was one to appreciate the gift of life. Still and mild conditions meant a relaxed pace was allowed. Up over some scree followed by crampons and a short pitch of 75 degree ice, great entertainment at five and a half thousand metres. Then a rock slab in crampons followed by easy angled, though exposed snow slopes to the top. And what a position! We soaked in the views until Ang Tenji’s (our Sherpa Helper) voice became too pervasive and we were called to descend. Chyote Sherpa our Sirdar, Chongba our Climbing Sherpa and Chuk Tenji our Cook had done a magnificent job efficiently and safely managing the porters, cook staff and loads over the crossing. This left the way clear for us to abseil followed by a long descent to camp. Mike and Jon moved quickly down and unsuccessfully tried to encourage those they passed not to rest for too long!

A total rest day was consumed in washing, lazing, reading and book swapping. An essential break before our final mountaineering objective – Island Peak. Continuing from Mera through the Honku makes for one of the most sustained and arduous expeditions Jagged Globe organises. It is one of my very favourites and rewards those mountaineers who feel a greater affinity for being In the mountains rather than just On Top of mountains. Our Scotsman Tom was the perect ambassador for this approach and his passion for the hills rubbed off on all of us. Having achieved his goals of Mera, traversing the Honku and crossing the Ampu Labsta, reaching Island High Camp was enough for him without going for an extra summit. Though I did my utmost to cajole him to come up I had the utmost respect for his knowing in himself when enough is as good as a feast.

Day 23, from another rocky High Camp we scrambled up through the dark to a point where we could put our crampons on and remove our headtorches. A gentle stroll across the glacier – wriggling toes in preference to taking out downies from our packs, the sun seemed so close to reaching us – took us to the foot of the fixed ropes from where we could move independently. Jon and Chongba took off quickly up the ‘dry’ icy slope which had started to form penitentes and made for easy scrambling. Quite a contrast to the usual clean snow slope.

The final stretch to the summit was great fun. A tiny foot pad edged along the sharp ridge for two hundred metres. No room to pass, traffic wardens might have been handy for a few sections of the fixed rope!

Island’s summit shared with a few other climbers was a fitting way to start our descent of the Khumbu. Our senses were overloaded with bells and smells as we traversed the Everest Trekking Super Highway. We arrived to Lukla ready for a big finale to our expedition and were in no way disappointed as we partied with our local staff – sharing songs, dancing, chang, raksi and Khukri Rum – all in moderation of course!

My appreciation to our team of climbers and local staff alike, who all contributed tirelessly to provide a once in a lifetime Himalayan Adventure for each other.

Mic Rofe
Expedition Leader « | »

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