Trip Reports

Bolivian Climber - 28 Jul to 18 Aug '07

Written by Leader Mic Rofe, January 2008

It was hugely satisfying for all of the group to summit on Pico Austria and then picture perfect Pequeno Alpamayo; thirteen climbers with their three Bolivian Guides and Leader, Mic Rofe. From the Condoriri Group we headed around to Huayana Potosi where eight of the group plus guides surmounted the wildly exposed ridge that leads to the summit. After refreshing ourselves in La Paz we headed back to the hills to finish with the mighty massif of Illimani. It was a day for gender inequality with four women in the six clients to summit, all showing the determination and inner strength to reach the summit.

We played at being tourists not climbers for the first few days of our expedition whilst our bodies adapted to our sudden arrival at over 3600m. Theodoro, a local cultural guide, showed many of La Paz’s sights as well as taking us to Copacabana. Here we took a boat across Lake Titicaca to the Isla del Sol. We walked through its small villages and traversed thousand year old agricultural terraces to reach the island’s highpoint, over 4000m, before dropping to another harbour and enjoying a feast of local produce; potatoes, fish and fruit.

Having got the acclimatization off to a good start we moved into Condoriri Base Camp, stretching our legs with light daypacks whilst llamas skittishly took our big bags in the general direction of BC. Andy heroically played shepherd chasing after one blue JG kitbag as it disappeared into the hills and received first hand experience of the effects of excessive exertion at altitude, ouch!

The whole group cruised up our first big peak, Pico Austria. Alistair, Jon, Claudette, Patricia & Adrian, Helene & Jim, Andy & Sue, Jonathon & Joanna, Ron & Louise; with our Bolivian Guides Sergio, Eduardo and Rene, and me: it was impossible to fit everyone in a single summit shot. Pico Austria has no technical difficulties, but does have magnificent views of the peaks of the Condoriri Group with Condor de Cabeza, the Condor’s Head, dominating all.

To prepare for our technical peaks we did a little training on the snout of the glacier; tidying our footwork and refreshing our familiarity with abseiling and fixed ropes. In the afternoon we had some fun playing on a beautiful twenty metre wall of waterfall ice. Two of our guides, Sergio and Eduardo, picked their lines and led them before setting top ropes for the rest of us to play. Ron gave us a fine example of good technique placing his tools firmly but without overdriving, not giving away to the rest of us the huge effort that vertical ice at nearly five thousand metres entails.

That evening the mess tent was resplendent with balloons to celebrate Sue’s birthday. A big thank you to Jon & Jo for there donation of lung power and to the donkey for the care it took in transporting the cake the final few hours of its journey from La Paz! During our rest day we feasted on trout fresh from the lake, gutted and fried by our wonderful cook Virginia and assistant Apollina, and made countless adjustments to the mess tent’s anchors as a fierce windstorm ripped through camp.

Pequeno Alpamayo started with a long pull up to the small rocky summit of Tarija. From here we viewed live the web image that had lured us from home all the way to Bolivia. Far, far better in real life compared to the Jpeg! A short rock scramble down and then across to the foot of the ridge. We moved together up most of the ridge, though pitched one rope length that touched on fifty degrees and had become a bit icy and covered with loose sugary snow from high traffic. Over an hour and a half the full team converged on the summit. The early arrivals dozed on the sun-warmed rocks whilst the clouds drifted in and out allowing sporadic views out from this magnificent summit.

Around to Huayana Potosi and a break from tents, we spent two nights in refuges on our way to the summit. Moving up in the dark is was great to see the twinkling lights of El Alto followed soon after by the rising sun. The final ridge to the summit was wildly exposed. As we edged gingerly up one side of the ridge occasionally our axes would push through to the other side sending shards of ice flying hundreds of metres down the west face. Alistair and Helene summitted first with Sergio; followed by Claud & Pat with Rene, then I came up with Jon, Jo & Jon and Sue.

Red wine, big steaks, and the Ritz’ hot water supply rewarded and revitalized us before we headed back out into the mountains and Illimani.

Having decided not to head on to Illimani; Ron, Louise and Adrian planned some sightseeing. Unfortunately, a spur of the moment journey to the jungle was not an option as they all lacked Yellow Fever jabs (which apparently need ten days to take effect). So the Salt Lakes were chosen and Theodoro, a cook and four-wheel drive appeared to take them on a ‘grim’ but memorable drive to some fantastic sights.

Also having decided not to come on to Illimani Jon & Jo at this time were unable to move their flights forward so also did some sightseeing. They ventured out to the area around Sajama, a volcano that is the highest peak in Bolivia.

For the rest of us a three day Siesta at the foot of Illimani seemed very attractive. But we dragged ourselves up to a beautiful Base Camp and then a long day, 1000m up, to Illimani’s High Camp at 5570m. Sadly, Andy again felt the exhaustion of being slightly underacclimatised on summit day and after pushing to 5800m he returned to camp (the same height that he had felt bad on HP). I was disappointed for Alistair, our Scottish strongman, who missed the summit held hostage in BC by his guts. Though I suspect for someone with so many summits under his belt one more or less will not make too much difference for him in the long run. For the rest of us it was a long hard day. With no sun until the final ridge it was a cool morning, especially when we stopped to belay one rope length. I was proud of all those in the team who made what was a tough summit; Jon, Pat & Claud, Helene & Jim, Sue, and Guides Rene, Sergio & Eduardo and me.

Back in La Paz we had a final opportunity for souvenir shopping and when the entire group had returned from their sightseeing adventures we came together for a final dinner. It was lovely to have all our local staff along too. My thanks to the entire group for a successful expedition to Bolivia.

Mic Rofe Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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