Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 6 Oct to 3 Nov '06

Written by Leader Mic Rofe, December 2006

This Mera & Island Peak trip was undoubtedly a huge success. I hope in reading this report two things emerge: firstly what a great time we had; and secondly, what a fine expedition Jagged Globe's combination of Mera & Island Peak with a crossing of the Amphu Labsta is.

After arriving in Kathmandu late afternoon early the next day we headed back to the airport. The short but nail-biting flight to Lukla was on time though we did have to wait for a few flights for all of our bags to arrive. The rest of the day and the next was filled with a beautiful steamy walk through rhododendron forest. Ron brought the walk to life with his incredible knowledge of flora & fauna. His sharp eye able to identify the smallest of birds as they darted across our track. I am sure he & Louise spotted & named over 100 species of birds during the trip.

From Pangom we headed up past a lovely monastery and the monks generously showed us around. With our right hands we dragged the monastery’s huge prayer wheel around its axis. Always holding on for an uneven number of laps as it chimed each rotation.

From here we departed from our published itinerary for a few days. The monsoon was hanging around a little longer than normal so we headed up and over the ridge route avoiding the normal path threatened by landslides and unsafe for our porters (& us!). The ridge was in no way inferior. Whilst the clouds enveloped us it looked a lot like Scotland and there were some great short exposed sections where we wondered what was below. When the clouds parted we knew for sure that we were in the Himalaya.

For all but our oldest, Ken (Lhakpa Ri 2004) and youngest Anselm (Aconcagua 2006), the trip provided opportunities to go to new altitudes. Alan, whose previous highpoint was Ben Nevis, entertained us with a joke at every 500m interval of new height. They seemed to get better the higher he went, no doubt he has a cracker saved for the top of Everest!

As the days passed and we gradually acclimatized a pattern of clear mornings and cloudy afternoons, often with a bit of snow, emerged. We adapted to this by making chilly early starts and often being into our new camp by lunchtime. At Tacto, from our camp within the forest, we had our first view of Mera Pk looming large through the clouds.

In a little town called Khote, midway along our route up the Hinku Valley, we met with some Maoists. They extracted their “Tourist Tax” amicably and even issued us with receipts. We certainly did not feel threatened, the biggest drama was a local little toddler who wanted to play whilst I was doing the serious business of filling in the paperwork. He kept jumping into and out of the stream of light coming through the doorway making it very difficult to write.

When we got to Khare, at the top of the Hinku, we switched from trekking mode into mountaineering mode as the valley, which we had virtually had to ourselves, became busy with other expeditions all converging at the foot of Mera Pk. In our plastics we headed steeply up a stunning ridgeline, sometimes on rock, sometimes on snow before crossing a friendly glacier to the Mera La and dropping into our Mera Base Camp.

Still anxious about the weather we did away with our rest day here and moved straight up to High Camp. A gentle plod uphill over the snow. One of our Sherpas had made an alpine start to secure us the best real estate in town. On tiny rock platforms we were perched dramatically above a huge drop.

Having hardly slept, at one am on the twentieth of October we woke up, rugged up, had some porridge and a cuppa and were on our way for the top. Mild conditions initially, only –12degC! The temperature dropped as the morning went on and Phurtemba Sherpa picked the hard packed line to the summit hidden beneath the fresh snow. Most parties stopped short of the summit, but we fixed a rope for a final short steep section of snow. We spent some time on the summit soaking up one of the best Panoramas in the Himalaya. With Aangto Sherpa, Phurtemba, James, Anselm, Ken, Alan, Mike & Louise on the summit my only disappointment was that Ron was not with us, having headed down from HC accompanied by our sirdar Chyote Sherpa. Ron had HAPE and had experienced severe breathing difficulties the previous evening on arrival at HC. It was sad because his excellent preparation for the trip, he was very fit and had strong technical skills, had been no defence to this form of Acute Mountain Sickness. I was pleased he was able to continue with us on the expedition.

From Mera’s BC we dropped down into the Hongu Valley. We had it all to ourselves as we trekked up to the foot of the Amphu Labtsa over the next two days. On the way through we had our coldest breakfast, minus fourteen as we scoffed down fried eggs all the while wriggling our toes. I arrived at camp below the AL a little after the rest of the group to find them all hard at work digging into the hillside to create platforms for the tents. Without a doubt they were the most comfortable sites of the trip and will be appreciated by JG trips of the future.

The first part of the day up to the Amphu Labsta was over the moraine before we reached the snow and donned crampons. We zigzagged up through some stunning terraces in the glacier, shown well in Anselm’s photos posted in the photo gallery, and steep snow slopes up to the pass. Here we waited in spectacular surrounds for some time as the porters’ loads were bundled together and lowered through the steepest part of the descent. After the porters had descended the fixed ropes we followed; partly scrambling down with prussicks on the rope, partly traversing and one steep thirty metre abseil.

It was a testament to the group’s strength that we could push through over the Amphu Labtsa before taking our first rest day of the expedition. Though it was incredibly arduous to do this we received our dividends in the form of a cloudless summit on Mera Peak and a safer passage over the Amphu Labsta compared to parties that followed us in the proceeding days.

It felt strange, but good, to do nothing for a day. Washing, reading and lazing about were enough for most of us. Except James, who I am sure has Sherpa blood in him for instead of resting he went for a run down the valley to Chukung with a shopping list and came back with chocolate bars and pringles for the group. Here at our Island Peak BC we treated to hot apple pie for dessert. With it’s crisp pastry and yummy filling it was arguably the culinary highlight of the trip. So good we complimented Dhane relentlessly for the next few days until he baked us another!

From here we had a short day up to High Camp. Here we had one of our cosiest dinners as we crammed into the kitchen tent for soup and dehydrated meals. The cod and mashed potato was the packet meal of choice.

Island Peak is a delightful and varied peak to climb. The first part of the day by torchlight saw us scrambling up a vague rocky track. Never particularly tricky it does have some slightly exposed sections. Just short of the snow Ron & Louise turned around with Chyote. At 5800m Ron was again experiencing breathing difficulties. We roped up across the glacier which was rippled and uneven and broken by some deep crevasses. Stout snow bridges led across these and we were soon at the foot of the fixed ropes. A little over 100m of 50-60 degree snow took us up onto the knifeblade summit ridge. A good track, though very exposed, and fixed rope took us along this ridge to a small summit. Prayer flags fluttered as we took in the panorama on the summit. In the foreground we could see the Amphu Labtsa and beyond Mera Peak. Behind us was the huge south face of Lhotse and down the valley Tawoche, Cholatse and the Khumbu. Whilst Alan modelled a t-shirt for a charity he was supporting Mike donned one from his local barber enticed by the chance of winning free haicuts for a year. Anselm & James posed with their ice axes for some cheesy summit shots. Ken, Phurtemba & Aangto happily took some pictures, were in some pictures but mostly just enjoyed being on the summit and taking in the view.

Over the next four days we headed down into the main Khumbu trail and out to Lukla. On the main Everest tourist trail for the first time, we were affronted by the noise, the bustle, all the tourists. Once we became used to this buzz and we let go our haste to be home the Khumbu unlocked her treasures. We passed through bustling little villages and watched houses being constructed. In Pheriche we sat around a memorial to the many lives lost on the Nepalese side of Everest. Here Ron visited the Himalayan Rescue Association Post and had the pleasure of a consultation with The Everest ER Doctor who confirmed our diagnosis of HAPE. In Tengboche it was great to sit in the Monastery for a while listening to the monks chanting, though two seemed to be spending more time giggling than reciting their prayers…Tengboche was also the start Anselm’s consumption of chocolate donuts which continued all the way back to Kathmandu.

We passed through the bustling town of Namche Bazaar and made a start on our gift shopping and the following day completed our circuit back to Lukla. Here with the aid of chang, raksi and The Dancing Man all took to the dance floor in the evening and we farewelled our Nepalese staff.

We arrived back in Kathmandu the following afternoon and spent the next couple of days sightseeing and shopping. We visited the alleyways of Thamel, pyres by Pashupatinath and the buddhists up at Boudhanath.

Mera & Island Peak truly is a full-blown expedition. We moved camp virtually every day as we traveled through three distinct beautiful valleys, climbed two great peaks and crossed the spectacular Amphu Labtsa. None of which would have been possible nor such fun without our team of twenty-nine: twelve eager porters; five busy kitchen staff; two energetic climbing sherpas; one tireless cook; our ever thoughtful Sirdar; and of course seven strong clients. To you all, dhanyabad!

Mic Rofe
Expedition Leader « | »

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