Trip Reports

Bolivian Climber - 16 Jul to 6 Aug '05

Dawn breaks on Huayna Potosi, Bolivia
Trip Report

Written by Leader Joe Gittens, August 2005

After a few days acclimatising in La Paz, we travelled to Lake Titicaca and enjoyed the sights. Taking a boat to the Island of the Sun, we ate beautiful King Fish, visited Inca ruins and saw spitting Llamas! One member in particular had first hand experience of this! We then travelled onto Condoriri and warmed up on Point Austria.

After that, all nine members of the group, led by Joe Gittins, summitted Pequeno Alpamayo (5,400m). It certainly is a stunning mountain, with spectacular scenery and very enjoyable to climb. After a days rest, we then travelled to Huayna Potosi (6,080m). We spent a night at high camp, perched on a shoulder of rock and had an early, alpine start in cold conditions. Tackling an entertaining bergschund, the final, steep head wall loomed in front of us. Seven team members and leader, Joe Gittins, made the summit. Lake Titicaca could be seen over the other side of the summit crest and the views were amazing.

Illimani could not be attempted due to difficult conditions, so alternative plans were made. Three members of the team opted to try to climb Bolivia's highest mountain, Sajama (6,530m) - they were successful. Three other members and Joe Gittins climbed to the shoulder of La Cabeza de Condoriri (the Condors head), with one member summiting on the Right Wing of the Condors Head after climbing an exciting 5m vertical ice wall and following a knife edge snow ridge to the summit. Back in La Paz, we all celebrated our success in style at the infamous ‘Mongos bar’.

Joe Gittens, expedition leader« | »

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