Trip Reports

Island Peak 25 October 2025

Island Peak, Chris Groves, Nov 2025 18
Trip Report

Written by Leader, November 2025

A slightly nervous start waiting for a delayed flight to Lukla. But we managed to get one of the last flights before clouds rolled in, arriving with all our bags just in time for lunch. Then the easy wander down to Phakding. The next 5 days were spent fully testing our waterproofs (they failed, nothing would keep that amount of rain out. An umbrella would have helped) as Nepal was hit with the remains of cyclone Montha. Fortunately, the lodges we stayed at had warm stoves, so we managed to dry out in time to get wet again the following day. Sadly, because of the weather, the peaks stayed hidden.

Things improved on arrival in Dingboche (although we were still in full waterproofs) with the discovery of particularly good coffee at a new and very fancy lodge. Just before bed I took a look outside to find clear skies & all the peaks lit by moonlight. The misery of previous days was instantly forgotten the following morning as the team took in the spectacular mountain scenery. After a second night and more coffees we moved on to Chukkung, finding snow under foot for the first time

The move to up to basecamp proved tiresome and time consuming, the compacted snow trail requiring much concentration and careful footwork. But the scenery was simply stunning and at least the trail was quiet. Much tea, biscuits and noodle soup was consumed on arrival followed by an afternoon relaxing in very comfortable tents. As expected, high camp was less comfortable, but a nice surprise was the Jokpo (Yak / Cattle cross) came up carrying most of our kit.

Woken at midnight, getting ready was a struggle in small tents, fully kitted up for the climb including crampons we finally left around 0145, sadly without Wink who’d decided his very experienced body couldn’t operate well enough with the reduced oxygen supply. Progress wasn’t quick due to the unusually snowy conditions but under a full moon, head torches weren’t really required. Rakita, finding it tough going often said she wanted to turn around but dug deep, determined to reach the top.

Access on to the glacier was very steep but straight forward given the snow cover and I was relieved to see the headwall was almost all snow rather than rock of previous years. A perfect morning dawned as Rinji rigged the ropes then sat grinning as we individually passed him moving on to the final ridge and the exposed rising traverse to the summit. Sammy had the honour of being first but the others were only minutes behind and the team celebrated with James’s Jelly Babies. But we all knew only half the job was done, we still had to get down.

It’s often said “it’s quicker on the way back” but on this occasion it didn’t feel like it. Care was needed every step, stopping briefly at high camp to remove crampons, pack and force down some food. Continuing down to basecamp where we could have easily slept but were lured back towards the comforts of the lodge in Chukkung. The final hour really dragged on in the cold and dark, the lights of the lodge seeming never to get any nearer. Finally, sitting in the warmth we are almost too tired to eat, and the beers people had been dreaming of remained unopened on the shelf. That’s properly tired!

In perfect weather and the stunning views meant nobody really noticed the tired legs as team headed leisurely down the valley. I had to keep reminding folk to turn around and look back up the valley to see what had been hidden in cloud on our way up.  Great evening was had in Namche, further celebrating our trip although the beer consumed resulted in more than one person ordering chocolate pudding for breakfast – at least it made a change from eggs and porridge!

A final night in Lukla saw Rakita win the coveted prize for the Hearts league although she had done much of the scoring and let slip she had been a semi-professional poker player…

While reaching the summit is what we aim for and get satisfaction from reaching the top, it only accounts for a tiny fraction of the time spent on such adventures. For me it’s the people, the team, the guides and the Nepalese in general that keep drawing me back. Huge thanks to Lama, Rinji, James, Rakita, Wink and Sammy. Not forgetting Shiv and all his team.

« | Next report »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.

Categories
Archives
 
Follow Us:
1