Trip Reports

Himlung Himal 2023 report

Himlung Himal 2023 team
Trip Report

Written by Leader James Holding (Jamie), November 2023

Jagged Globe’s successful first expedition to Himlung Himal (7126m) was led by Robert Mads Anderson and Pem Chhiri Sherpa in October 2022. Robert’s expedition report hinted at the perfection of the challenge, with an interesting and objectively safe route. Pem too was enthusiastic about the expedition and told me all about it, as we strolled up the Khumbu Valley with Jagged Globe’s Ama Dablam 2022 team, the following month. After a summit studded time together, the prospect of joining Pem and the boys for Himlung Himal 2023 was enticing for sure. Shared values, sharing the experience, striving to create opportunities, is what draws me back time and again.

The Sherpa team comprised Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Mani Badahur Tamang and Mingma Dorji Sherpa, with around 50 ascents of 8000m peaks between them, plus a cook team of Kanchhaman, Krishna and Dalle. To call the latter two “cook boys” is a ridiculous misnomer, they have the technical skill, willingness and determination to carry loads to 6000m, sure footed up and down fixed lines, to build the pyramid of support required to put climbers in position to make a summit bid. Without the craft and graft of this bunch of Him lungs we would need twice as long on the mountain to give ourselves half the chance. How they manage to do it, I’m not entirely sure, and I can only express my gratitude for their unrelenting efforts. What I do know is how they fuel their efforts, Kanchhaman feeds them. Double carbs usually. Pre-cooked Sherpa stew, rice, pasta and potatoes are carried up to all the high camps, lightweight rations are not on their menu. If you can eat what the Sherpas eat you won’t climb like you’ve got their lungs, but it will be a step in the right direction.

Our mixed team of Him and Her lungs were the most experienced group of high mountaineers and trekkers I have ever shared a mountain with. Dozens of expeditions to the Greater Ranges, spanning decades, meant the trek in, the mountain, and most importantly the process, were familiar. The veteran Him lungs, Ron and Paul, would admit a slowing of their pace, yet their fire to climb burns on. Her lungs, Edi and Catriona, had plenty of mountain experience and I had shared summits with each of them. Saas 4000ers, Weissmies 4017m and Allalinhorn 4027m, with Catriona, and Spantik 7027m with Edi. This breadth and depth of experience in the team was shared through tales of past adventures, open discussion about our strategies and itinerary, done with humility, confidence and the patience always required to acclimatise.

The road from Kathmandu to Koto, where the trek to Base Camp begins, is a two day drive. The bus ride to Besisahar was a mix of wacky racing and grid lock, taking us to the oasis of the Gateway. Clouds rolled along with us as we trundled in jeeps to the Koto and the roadhead. Ron and Paul had been marooned at the Mountain View Lodge for days the previous year, before trekking in armed with umbrellas. Rain hammered down overnight and the day brought no mountain view, our departure delayed but only for a day. Koto is at 2600m, so I guess acclimatisation began.

The trek to Base Camp 4850m leaves the Marsyangdi Valley and heads north up the Naar Valley, initially below the tree line, along the steep river valley flanks, to emerge at the tiny village of Meta 3600m. Twenty odd sturdy mules carried our Base Camp burden and we took the trek nice and slowly. Beyond Meta we kept north, following Phu Khola towards Mustang, with Tibet beyond. Past Kyang the trail is carved into the cliffs high above the river, a dramatic entrance to the village of Phu at 4000m, with its monastery, Tashi Lhakhang Gompa, perched on an isolated hill above.

We had an idyllic acclimatisation day, shuffling slowly up to the gompa, where we were ushered inside to light candles. Around the gompa prayer flags fluttered on the breeze and the rich colours of brightly painted mani stones were in glorious sunshine. It was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been.

A short hike to Base Camp concluded the trek in. Snow on the ground would burn off in the coming settled weather, replenished by a snow flurry that lasted two days. Our puja ceremony was led, with regal dignity, by the Lama from Phu. After a snowy hike to tag 5000m above Base Camp, we were ready for our acclimatisation mountain rotation. The support crew fired into action and we geared up for 4 days of creeping slowly higher.

Crossing the Pangri Glacier, south to north, involves descending a steep, gravelly moraine flank, traversing ridges of jumbled boulders, spying out cairns to find the route, and a final ascent of a steep, boulder-studded moraine wall, dangling with fixed lines. On the far side lies Japanese Base Camp, where a zig zagging path leads to an easy crest and undulations hide Camp 1 5450m till it appears just steps ahead.

Gaining altitude to acclimatise is always a shock to the system. Knowing the process simply gives confidence that it will happen and patience to take it slowly, with appropriate height gains and recovery times. Our first day above Camp 1 was a lightly loaded foray up and down the fixed lines, towards the shoulder and shelf which leads on to the glacier below Camp 2. Ascenders on for up the lines, tail switches to safeguard swap over points, and hand wraps to steadily control descents. We had rehearsed on a rope circuit above Base Camp but now it was real, repetitive practice, embedding good habits and concentrating on footwork. Not steep but exposed in parts, steady away.

To Camp 2 took us above 6000m, via a bottleneck gully filled with loose, shaley rock, mostly at an angle that would roll rather than fly. The glacier trail was on firmly packed and frozen snow, with just enough other teams on the mountain to help pack it down after any fresh snowfall, without seeming to be busy. As Robert noted last year, for all but the summit day it’s practical to wait for the sun to begin warming you before setting out from camps, often around 8am, with snow conditions staying firm. After a night at Camp 2 we headed back to Base Camp, leaving a few high camp items at Camp 1, ready for our return.

Three teams, two of which were guided individuals, were in step with our itinerary and we got to know them, share ideas on strategies and information on weather and anticipated conditions. Special thanks to Martin and Lena, with their group from Scandinavia, and to Jon and his Sherpa team, guiding Sarah. Mountain ascents demand collaborative efforts, where we can learn from others and combine our efforts to mutual benefit. I love this element of expeditioning, wandering about Base Camp to meet others and look a little wider. Pem too is a master of this element, so it was no surprise that Dorji would be Jagged Globe’s representative on the rope fixing team, who would advance beyond Camp 2 to fix lines to Camp 3 and above towards the summit.

Recovering and resting down in Base Camp sees us, even me, eating at every opportunity, scanning weather forecasts, liaising with other teams, plotting summit strategies, and working backwards from trek out exit schedules. Ideally you want to avoid time pressure, with it’s potential to compress and compromise acclimatisation. Trek and drive times might be variable but we can’t exit quicker than the mules can travel, and they can’t see in the dark. A window of opportunity emerged but not before Dorji headed upwards, two days in advance. His Him lungs were working hard, the fixing team forged above Camp 3, and he strolled up to the summit, because he could.

Kanchhaman cooked and bagged up meals for high camps. We talked through our plan, with reminders regarding cold weather strategies. Krishna and Dalle, with Pem and Mani, got loaded up, and we were off to Camp 1, trying to take it easy as they worked hard. The weather window of opportunity was open, if a little breezier than forecast. A summit bid was on. The ground to Camp 2 was familiar and Camp 3 was in sight. To reach it meant a traverse, which led to an ice wall. From a distance it looked merely a steeper slope, in reality it bulged in two places, adorned with the thickest fixed rope on the mountain. I revelled in it, Grade II+ ice above 6000m, pick planting and front point tapping, with regular foot ledges to ease the tension. Above we traversed a broad snow ridge leading to a shoulder and Camp 3 6400m.

To seize the summit opportunity always requires every element to align, minor niggles or health issues, inadequate equipment, or attritional cumulative fatigue can scupper the best intentions. Suffice to say we opted for some descents in good order, with Dorji and Edi achieving the summit, the high point of our collective efforts. Him lungs and Her lungs topping out on Himlung Himal 7126m. Requiring every bit of warm wear they had. Top effort, the peak of the pyramid of everyone’s efforts. Thanks to each of you for helping make it happen.

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