Trip Reports

Bolivian Climber - 4 to 24 July '11

Written by Leader Greg Coe, July 2011

Most of the team gathered at Heathrow on the Sunday evening, except Simon and John, who had travelled out in advance. They were met by expedition leader Greg Coe who, due to an unforeseen administrative oversight (misplaced passport), was unable to fly that night. A relaxing day was spent recovering from the long haul flight in a fine hotel in San Paulo, before the onward connections. The usual mayhem ensued at Santa Cruz (three simultaneous 747 arrivals, one squeaky carousel, and two indifferent customs officials) before finally arriving in La Paz late that evening.

A day of cultural sights and mild headaches followed, as the team kick-started their acclimatisation at the capital’s 3,800m altitude. A second splendid buffet breakfast at the Ritz Hotel fuelled the two-hour bus journey to Lake Titicaca, where a short walk up a nearby hill gave great views of the lake, and stimulated the corpuscles some more. The team was joined by Greg that night, making a full complement for the next day’s boat ride to the scenic Isla del Sol, and a leisurely walk around the island’s historical sites, and peaceful agricultural scenes.

The next day saw us back on the bus, and heading into the mountains at last: two hours on tarmac, and two hours on hard track brought us near to the settlement of Tuni, at the approach to the Condoriri mountain group, and our first night under canvas. It was also a chance to meet some of our guides for the next few weeks: the ever-cheerful Nelson, wise Rene, and our tireless cook team of Juenses and Carlita.

After a cold, clear night we had a beautiful blue-sky day for our leisurely four-hour stroll with light packs up the increasingly stunning valley, to be overtaken at intervals by herds of donkeys and llamas bearing tables, stools, sacks of food, and the distinctive red Jagged Globe holdals.

Camp was established under the towering snowy peaks, for what was to be home for the next five days: the following day saw us trooping up Peak Austria (5,350m) in perfect weather once again. Our resident Swede, Emil, had been struck down by a bout of D & V the day before, and having done well to make the journey to base camp, elected to spend the day recovering. The rest of us were rewarded with views of the distant Lake Titicaca, and the surrounding Condoriri group from the summit.

The following day saw us carrying out glacier training in fine weather once again, and we were joined by Eduardo, who was to be our indomitable head guide for the remainder of the trip. We practiced fixed rope techniques, moving roped together, and tackled a short steep ice wall before returning to camp.

A day of rest followed: an opportunity to air kit, eat well, relax, and for some to begin the card school, which was to be a feature of the trip (where we discovered that possession of a medical degree was no guarantee of card-playing savvy).

The next day was a chance for the first crack at a serious mountain, and we were away by 3:00am under a preposterously starry sky. An hour’s trudge up the valley brought us to the start of the glacier, and the three-hour slog up and over the peak of Tarija. Challenging preconceptions, the racing snakes on the fast rope with Eduardo consisted of Ian (the oldest on the trip) and Sue (bringing a touch of glamour as the only lady). Next (with Marcello) came the youngsters: Simon and James, followed by John and Phil with GC: the steady plodders. Unfortunately Dave experienced an attack of nausea near 5,000m and retired with Rene, leaving Mike to join Nelson’s rope, with Steve and a rejuvenated Emil. We crested Tarija as the sun turned the sky orange, and were presented with the impressive and somewhat daunting silhouette of our objective, Pequeno Alpamayo. A descent of the rocky scramble brought us to the col, and the first of the fixed ropes, which safeguarded the 50degree exposed ridge. Some juggling of the rope teams followed, as we moved together in various groups, tackling the second steepening of the ridge, and all arriving at the summit by 9:00am to glorious views, and a well-earned packed lunch. The descent was made in good order, and we were all back in camp by 1:00pm, with the satisfaction of the first big summit under our belts.

Next day was the move to Huayna Potosi, and an introduction to the dubious delights of Bolivian climbing huts (warm and welcoming, but crowded, stuffy and with lamentable latrines…) Steve looked at death’s door at this point, but was provided with an array of drugs, under the ministrations of our two doctors, and was able to drag himself to high camp the next day, where we all settled into an afternoon of preparation, eating, and more cards.

Another 3:00am departure, another starry moonlit night, and dawn found us high on the mountain with all teams going strongly on the long traverse to the eastern side. We were glad of a bit of technical climbing, all enjoying the exposed ridge that leads the final 200m to the summit, and the remarkable achievement of all ten clients reaching the top. Dave experienced problems with his boots on the descent, providing us with the sight of his guide Orlando actually running back up the mountain with alternative footwear: an impressive feat!

Then back to La Paz, and a chance to enjoy limitless breakfast buffets, two nights in a bed, and to rejuvenate before heading out once more, to tackle Illimani: the biggest peak yet at 6,462m. The spectacular drive was followed by a pleasant 2-hour walk to the basecamp, then a more demanding 5-hour, 1,000m climb the next day up the rocky buttress to the site of our high camp, as the clouds began to gather ominously for the first time in weeks. Unfortunately the rigours of high-altitude expeditioning were beginning to take their toll, with Dave, John and James experiencing health problems, and electing to return to base camp. The rest of us set alarms for early, but awoke to thick cloud high on the mountain, and the wind increasing. Further weather checks at 3:00 and 4:00am looked as bad, or worse, so we put off our summit bid for the night.

Next day Steve headed down, with his cough no better, while the rest of us waited out the day. The next night still showed cloud over the summit, but no wind in high camp, so we were off…

Illimani is steep and unrelenting, and the weather worsened as we progressed. Phil was soon felled by a bout of vomiting, and chose to descend with Nelson, leaving Simon and uber-fit Orlando to race on ahead and show the way. The delays involved in pitching two long 50degree sections allowed the cold to bite, but dawn eventually arrived to find us in thick cloud and 30 knot winds. The understated Mike and Emil seemed to have saved their best efforts for last, and despite the prospect of no views we made steady progress, breaking onto the final summit ridge as the wind increased still further. We trudged up the dispiritingly long ridge, eventually to be reunited with Simon and Orlando in white-out on the broad summit. Ian, Sue and Eduardo were close behind, and we exchanged hurried congratulations as we passed. Focus and determination are required for this long descent, and despite a few meanderings amongst the crevasses and snowed-over tracks, we all made it back to the high camp by mid-afternoon, and with the help of our sturdy porters, stripped the camp and were back in base by nightfall.

The following day we enjoyed beers and a barbecue at the roadhead before being whisked back to La Paz (to ensure more shopping time for Sue), and most of the team had the sense to pack before heading out for a congratulatory dinner with guides, cooks and helpers. A fine feast was enjoyed, prizes awarded, and much merriment was had: a fitting finale to a most successful and harmonious trip.

Great effort everyone, “que les vayan bien”

Greg Coe, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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