Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 8 Oct to 6 Nov '10

Written by Leader Tony Halliwell, November 2010

Unusually unseasonal weather at the start of the expedition meant that the group of 8 climbers and 1 Jagged Globe leader were held up in Kathmandu for an unscheduled 3 days after their arrival. The weather at Lukla was socked in and it took a good deal of time for the backlog to be cleared. Futhermore, by the time we arrived at Lukla, it was too late in the day to set off on the first part of our journey to Poyan. By the time we got going next morning, we were therefore 4 days behind schedule. Such is life when you go to the mountains. But, “It is a bad plan that admits no modification” and Jagged Globe itineraries are put together to be flexible enough to ensure the greatest chance of achieving success - so it was time to reconsider the itinerary. We had 3 objectives; Mera Peak, the technical crossing of the Amphu Lhapsa and Island Peak. By re-jigging the itinerary slightly we managed to shave 2 days off the walk-in, whilst still avoiding an unacclimatised crossing of the Zatrwa La and packing in most of the planned acclimatisation programme. All 3 objectives were still achievable, but only if we lost no more days. This prospect, along with the option of reducing the number of objectives from 3 to 2, was discussed with the clients, but the universal determination was to press on and set our sights as originally intended if this were at all possible.

Our plans received further set backs as the weather continued very unsettled during the first week of the walk in (the umbrellas we bought in Lukla came in very handy) and then falling foul of a ‘flu and cough bug in the second week, which seemed to affect a large number of groups this year. Both the resolute attitude of everyone in the group to carry on and their belief that everything would finally come good were equally admirable.

The latter is exactly what started to happen as we descended into the Hinku Valley. By the time we reached Tangnag on day 11, the pattern of the weather was starting to improve and by the time we got to Khare, 2 days later, the days were dawning bright blue.

After our skills days at Tangnag and Khare, we moved up to a base camp just below the Mera La on day 15 and the next morning we moved on up to our high camp at 5780m, with views over our right shoulders to Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Baruntse.

At high camp a distant view over to Kangchenjunga was added to the above list and with the weather still set fair we settled down to a comfortable (partial) night’s sleep, although one of our group was definitely starting to feel the altitude and would go no higher the next day.

And so, on day 17 after a 0200 alarm, we set out at 0300 for the summit. It was cold, as expected, but with a strong wind adding to the chill factor. One more client turned back at around 6,200m (the height of many a trekking peak) and a couple of hours after dawn 6 out of 8 climbers reached the central summit (6,461m) and we satisfied ourselves with this achievement, since the strong winds and cold temperatures made it difficult to consider waiting around whilst ropes were put up to gain the northern summit, 15m higher.

After gaining the south summit, we descended to high camp, pressed on to base camp and then down into the Hongu Valley. In order to meet our objective of sticking to the original 3 objectives, we skipped our rest day and pushed on towards the head of the valley. Two days later, tired but determined, we camped under the Amphu Lhapsa. Next day we were the third of three groups crossing this high, spectacular pass (5,845m), but, being third and last, the whole group had the chance to linger on the top, avoiding all bottlenecks, savouring the glorious tranquillity and taking amazing photographs, before the exciting abseils down into the Khumbu. At the end of a long day we established our own Island Peak base camp, well away from the crowds and set to enjoying our plans for a full day’s rest.

On day 22 we headed up to Island Peak high camp, enjoyed a truly spectacular meal of dal bhat with succulent buffalo meat and next day, 7 out of 8 climbers set off on the scrambling route up the mountain, onto the glacier and up the fixed ropes of the headwall onto the ridge for the summit.

After the summit (in “Scottish” conditions) our long day ended with a descent as far as Chukhung. Snow had been falling since lunchtime and continued all night, such that the next blue sky day dawned with total snow cover well down the valley. Our staging posts were Deboche, then Namche Bazarre (good bakeries; good coffees) and we flew out of Lukla soon after daybreak on day 27 in order to settle into the oasis of the Summit hotel for a couple of days enjoying Kathmandu and a couple of special meals. Well done to everyone.

Tony Halliwell, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

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