Trip Reports

Bolivian Climber - 25 Jul to 5 Aug '09

Written by Leader Tom Parkin, August 2009

As we climbed the ridgeline, up to the Nido de Condores, on Illimani, the clouds were once more rolling in darkly from the West. The first Expedition having been forced to retreat, due to 20cm of snow overnight, the chances looked good that the same would happen again.

The team had arrived in La Paz a fortnight ago. Overnight there had been 20cm of snow at Illimani Base Camp, followed by a further 30cm of snow the following night. It was the worst winter in ten years, with some of the coldest recorded temperatures on the Altiplano.

As we toured La Paz, on that first day, there was snow visible draping the slopes cascading down into the city. The team already seemed really strong, perhaps because Brazilian Immigration had left them stewing for three hours in Arrivals (was this revenge for the last team’s “illegal entry”!). They had also bonded incredibly quickly into a fun-loving, gaggle of laughter. Jo, in particular, was the source of all-day hilarity and her location easily identified on any hill or campsite.

After a couple of nights in La Paz we headed off to Copacabana. The weather was improving and Spring was on its way. Small flowers were appearing on cactus, broom and the mint plants that gently scented the air. Copacabana was a lot quieter than previously, as the citizens from La Paz had returned after the festivities – celebrating 200 years of freedom. Our Hotel overlooked Lake Titicaca and we all reveled in the warm sunlight, especially on our motor launch journey across the Lake to walk around the Isla del Sol.

Little did the team know that all was about to become a lot more testing, as we drove back over the Straights, through the city of El Alto, and almost up to the road head below the magnificent Condoriri. The hike in was in warm sunshine yet again, though the campsite was noticeably emptier as the season headed to its close. That first night we watched as two Chilean climbers were assisted off a nearby mountain, having being caught out after dark. The clouds were looming.

The first few days were taken up with acclimatisation and resting at altitude. The team quickly dispatched with Point Austria, though the weather was colder and one or two were already ill-disposed in camp. The glacier training day was extended to include a section on awkward, broken rock: nothing as steep as on Pequeno Alpamayo but still requiring a combination of technical skills and confident movement over such ground in crampons. Illness and apprehension increased.

Summit day started at 3am, and its -5°C outside. Dan and Heike are the first casualties, already down with fatigue, from the nausea of the last few days. By the time we all get to the foot of the glacier the rope teams have begun to disentangle, first with the loss of Matt, and then part way up, the irrepressible Jo having to go down. The teams spread out, the “Special Needs” team, of Paul & Harriet, slowly gaining ground. By the time they are on the steeper, icy ridge of Pequeno Alpamayo, the rest of the teams are gathering behind them on the rock rognon. There, Ed, Jackie and Veronica, elect to watch the remainder of the sunrise and admire the spectacular view of the mountain piercing the sky, and the surrounding sea of cloud.

Over on the summit Paul & Harriet basked in the still air, after overcoming the potentially treacherous sections of the ridge. The recent snows, exposure and sheer physicality of the ascent, especially when not even fully acclimatized, made for a demanding physical and mental challenge. Anne and Roland quickly joined them, shortly followed by Stu. For over an hour there was an unwillingness to relinquish such a hard won summit, eventually though they all made the long, weary journey back down to base camp.

Before the fresh showers of La Paz could be reached, however, there was the little matter of Huayana Potosi. Unfortunately four of the team had already had to return to La Paz: Heike, Ed, Veronica and Matt. A combination of altitude illness, fatigue and the usual stomach issues had taken their toll and all had elected to sensibly opt for some rest and comfort.

On the ridge up to Refugio Alta Roca there was more compacted snow and ice than before, as well as a more distinctive chill in the air. The weather looked threatening and later that night an electrical storm, and buffeting easterly winds, swept in over the surrounding mountains. We rose at 2am to an eerily still, starlight night, a waning full moon partially helping to light up the slopes. Jackie and Dan were already suffering but teamed up together and, even though Jackie had to turn back, Dan not only managed to summit that day but helped rescue a Frenchwoman on the descent. Unfortunately Jo and Stu suffered a combination of cold and illness, the wind in particular proving a vicious enemy as it grew steadily in force towards dawn. Even the dawn light proved fleeting as clouds started building up all around. Anne was struggling, with the start of a chest infection, and this time it was Roland who spurred their pairing on, in a real show of team motivation. Meanwhile the “Special Needs” team had found their way to the summit and practiced jumping some of the spectacularly undercut crevasses en route.

As the team started descending the mountain the weather closed in: clouds descended and it began to snow. Fears of possible white-out conditions quickly became a reality and the pace necessarily slowed as the return path was sought out. All made it back to the Refugio but all thought of rest was forgotten as the gathering storm chased us off the mountain.

Two nights in La Paz proved very welcome before we took the 4x4s to Illimani. Even so Heike, Ed, Jo and Stu felt too unfit to continue with our next ascent and remained behind.

As we scrambled to the Nido de Condores high camp the late afternoon storm petered out in the distance. From the west the snows were coming and already the slopes of Alpamayo and Potosi were avalanche prone. Overnight the temperature quickly dropped to -7°C, by the time we all rose at 1am. The wind had shifted to the East and it felt considerably colder. Veronica had reached her own high point the previous day, consistently battling fatigue, she elected to remain in camp. Equally, Jackie was suffering and made a valiant effort, but was turned back a third of the way to the summit. Dan had picked up an ankle injury in La Paz but made a strong attempt regardless and managed to reach half way before returning to camp. The only person seemingly in fine health was Matt who strode all the way to the summit. Having been denied on every other, through illness, this one was not going to escape him. He arrived first and was followed by the “Special Needs” team, struggling with the cold, as were Anne and Roland, although they also both had chest infections to contend with. No one stayed on the summit for longer than was necessary, the blazing sun doing barely anything to relieve the biting wind.

The following day we enjoyed our last taste of the mountains, basking in warm sunshine, tucking in to the biggest mixed-grill BBQ and salad feast ever, mountains to the horizon. « Previous report | Next report »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.