Trip Reports

Everest South Col 2009

On the final section of the SE Ridge of Everest in spring 2011

Written by Leader Adele Pennington, June 2009

There is no mountain quite like Everest. Its base camp provides climbers with a home and trekkers the realisation of their lifetime goal. The journey through the icefall is like a game of Russian roulette, with the steep-sided slopes bounding its edges spontaneously releasing tons of snow at any time of the day. The Western Cwm is a place to dream before reaching the upper slopes of the Lhotse Face, which gives access to the South Col. Unfortunately not all those who wish to stand on the top of the world do, but for Jagged Globe this year, nine of the eleven climbers who left the South Col lived their dream on 19 and 20 May 2009. Our thirteen Sherpa’s accompanying the team all helped in the ascent, some with individual team members and leaders and others providing back up and supplying the team with water on their return.

For anyone who has reached the South Col, they will all now recognise that reaching these heights is not as physically and mentally as tiring as descending safely back to base camp. By 23 May all the Jagged Globe team of climbers and Sherpas were back in base with no more journeys through the icefall to make. The sense of relief is unimaginable and tears rolled down the faces of those who had been watching our movements from base and afar. Climbing Everest is a rollercoaster ride and our team rode that ride and can now feel proud of their achievements.

On 28 March the climbers and team trekkers left the UK. The Trekkers were in full holiday spirits, whilst the climbers were a little more subdued about what they were about to undertake. The trek into base camp was a great journey in itself, with a visit to Ama Dablam base camp thrown in. Memories of each day will be different for each member, but the laughter that rose from Dingboche as the team of 25 laughed their way through Charades, will never be forgotten. From Dingboche to Lobuje and finally Gorak Shep, most team members made the ascent of Kala Patar (5,500m) to get their first real glimpses of the icefall. Arriving at base camp was exciting for all, the climbers scurrying away to make their homes for the next 6 weeks and the trekkers soaking up the atmosphere of this amazing village.

Our Sherpa team had done a magnificent job of preparing our camp so that it would feel like home. After a couple of days it was time for our team to split, the team trek to descend back down to Lukla and the climbers to start taking their first steps through the icefall. The Puja Ceremony took place with our resident Lama/Sherpa, Tamtin, which gave us permission to start our climb. The ice doctors who maintained the ladders and ropes throughout the season had prepared the journey through the icefall. Everyone has their own stories to tell about this five-hour journey - some love it and some hate it! This year the trip through the icefall was hampered by avalanches from the West Shoulder of Everest, that released at what appeared to be any time of day.

By 24 April most of the team had been to visit Camp 2 (6,400m) and were resting in base camp. Our next acclimatisation phase was to take us up to touch and sleep in Camp 3 (7,400m). To accommodate every member of the team, we split the group into three and planned an extended stay at Camp 2 to avoid repeated journeys through the icefall. Each stage of this acclimatisation phase went perfectly, until the weather finally broke on 3 May. The last team turned around at the bottom of the Lhotse Face, so didn’t experience Oxygen-induced sleep at Camp 3.

Now with our acclimatisation stages complete, it was time for the team to get some R and R at the Himalayan Hotel in Pheriche. Hot showers, a bed and some serious eating for a few days seemed to do the team good as they returned to camp on 11 May, fired for their summit push. It was now time to wait patiently for the weather window, which came sooner than expected and on 15 May our first team (bananas) were mobilised to Camp 2 and on 16 May the second team (oranges) moved to Camp 2. Each day the respective teams moved onto their next destination and Mara in base camp kept us updated with new forecasts as we moved up the mountain, hoping that the weather would remain true to the forecast.

The Sherpa team supported us all the way - running up to meet us in the mornings as we left camp and greeting us on our arrival at the South Col with drinks. On 18 May Willie Benegas, Nick Robertson, Carlos Morey, Bill Goodland and Doug Waymark, along with their Sherpas reached the South Col. At 9pm that evening they departed for the summit and soon the group found themselves in front of the other teams. From the Balcony (8,400m) Willie broke trail to put the Jagged Globe team on top at 7.05am.

Unfortunately Carlos lost a contact lens just above the Balcony and returned to the South Col. As the team came down the rest of us who had reached the South Col greeted them and offered congratulations. Then the tired climbers took to their beds and slept as Amanda Richmond, Neil Taylor, Ian Spalding, Kevin Moses and Chris Grubb prepared for their summit push.

The weather deteriorated and climbers from other teams trickled into camp, having experienced exceptionally long days. Unknown to our team, who were all now safely asleep, there were some problems on the mountain with another climber and Willie and some of the Jagged Globe Sherpas went to assist. Soon it was time for the second team to depart. The weather had improved and the stars indicated a clear night for our ascent.

At 8.30pm the team of seven climbers and seven Sherpas started towards the Balcony. Tomaz was in front, with Adele taking her usual spot at the back of the group. Unfortunately Neil and Ian who had been suffering from ongoing chest infections turned around at around 8,200m and went back to the South Col. Tomaz, Amanda, Chris, Kevin and Adele however continued with their Sherpas and between 4.00am and 7.30am all the group had made the summit, before returning safely back to the South Col. Each team then made their way down the mountain dreading their last run through the icefall, whilst our Sherpas worked incredibly hard to clear the mountain. By 23 May we were all back to base camp safe and sound to enjoy the rest of our base camp treats!

Thank you to our Sirdar, Nima, Sherpas and cook team, all our team members, Mara our base camp manager and of course our Mountain Guides Willie and Tomaz for making this Expedition happen.

Adele Pennington, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.