Trip Reports

Mongolia Climber - 7 to 22 Aug 04

Written by Leader, August 2004

The group returned to Ulan Baatar on 20 August after a fascinating and successful expedition to the Altai in the far westernmost corner of Outer Mongolia. The Altai is a beautiful area, very remote and very unspoilt, with scenes strongly evocative of central Asia (camels, horsemen racing across the steppes, 'gers' or yurts, yaks and snow capped peaks beyond lakes crowded by flocks of migrating birds). The local Kazak people are incredibly hospitable, they gave the group a superb welcome and looked after us very well at Base Camp. In fact we had our own 'ger' to use as a mess tent which was luxury!

We were blessed by good weather for almost the whole length of our stay in the mountains. On arrival at BC we had a day's acclimatisation with an ascent of a 3,700m peak right on the Russian border, whilst some of the group ascended Malchin (4,083m). We then took a rest day and sorted food and equipment for the move to ABC. This was sited at 3,700m close to a 'rognon' on the glacier directly below our main objective, Mount Khuiten (4,374m). We had managed to get some reasonably detailed maps of the area in Ulan Baatar and these indicated a route to the summit that would be easier and less serious than the existing 'normal' route.

We did a brief recce in the evening and the new way looked good. The next day we set off from ABC at 6.30 am under clear skies. Our new route led to a col on the frontier with China and then up steep snow slopes to the summit ridge; here a short ascent along the ridge led to the summit. The whole group reached the top (Tim Moss, Paul Sutton, Nigel Tanner, Marlies Nakaso, Peter Hill, Bob Cresswell, Charlotte Jolly, Eric Varley, Alfonso Vaquero Marin, Peter Cutts, Bonny Masson, John Eames - leader, and Mick Rofe - local climbing guide) and the weather was so good we could not even fly a kite!

The views over China, Mongolia and Russia were fantastic, everybody was in 'good shape' and we spent over half an hour enjoying the situation. We were also especially pleased with what should be a new route on the mountain and that it took us directly to the true summit. Many groups climbing the normal route stop on the North East summit which is 4m lower and probably 20-30mins further along the ridge. On the descent, half of the group traversed a lower peak of 4,100m.

On the following day the whole group (less 1 with a minor knee injury) traversed the 4,100m peak of Nairandal, the 'friendship peak' that is at the junction of China, Russia and Mongolia. Technically very starightforward, the views and the enjoyment of being so high made for an excellent ascent before we descended to ABC, packed our tents and continued to BC.

More of the group ascended the 4,083m Malchin on the final day in the mountains and then it was the long journey back to the 'real world'! First by horseback, Mongol style, with all the gear loaded on camels and then by jeep to the 'otherworldly' town of Olgi and our first beers! Finally, the flight to Ulan Baatar and, as I write, the group should be winging its way to Moscow and eventually London. Congratulations to you all!

John Eames, Expedition Leader, 22 Aug 04 « Previous report | Next report »

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