Bolivian Climber - 3 to 24 July 2004
Written by Leader, July 2004
A very successful Bolivian Climber Expedition with team members summiting on all major peaks. We arrived in country to unsettled weather but this soon cleared to wide-open clear blue skies with a very settled feel. Everyone enjoyed the stunning Condorirri base camp location with six out of the seven team members summiting both point Austria (5,300m) and the elegant alpine summit Pequeno Alpamayo (5,400m). Gareth Jones found it difficult to adjust to the rarified air set a new altitude record for himself of 5,200m before deciding to return to the UK for personal reasons (we missed you Gareth!)
The team then moved excitedly on to Hyuana Potosi (6,086m - christened ‘The Big Potato’ by some elements) and spent a magical night high on the glacier watching the shimmering lights of La Paz and a stunning sunset above and below clouds over Illimani. Rachael Maddock, Hugo Chritchley, Amanda Jones, Richard Squire and Helen Dickens all made the summit in good style at 08:00hrs and caught their breath on the dramatic and precipitous summit before descending all the way to La Paz that night. Dave Hunt decided to sit this one out in La Paz as he tried to throw off a brewing chest cold. A six thousander and then five star hotel in one day…what a day! Rachael Maddock and Hugo Critchley decided against attempting Illimani due to concerns that its icy condition would make it more technical than desired and a wish to see more of the cultural side of Bolivia. They spent the final week on an interesting tour of Sucre and the (still operational!) silver mines in Potosi, before rejoining the group for the final night in La Paz.
The Illimani crew then enjoyed a nail biting jeep ride through stunning scenery to an idyllic high base camp. The race was on to beat a sizable German group to the tiny Nido de Condores (5,400m high camp) before settling in for the pre-summit snooze. Amanda Jones weakened by an ill-timed stomach bug was unable to join the summit team, but would watch their slow progress by head-torch up the icy Illimani slopes above. At 11:10hrs in strong winds and very cold temperatures Helen Dickens, Rich Squire and Dave Hunt cruised the last airy ridge to the summit of Illimani (6,400m), accompanied by the two Bolivian Guides Osvaldo and Carlos and Jagged Globe Leader, Tania Noakes. Rich Squire did a cartwheel to celebrate and then had to do it again because Helen Dickens thought she’d missed it on camera the first time! The whole team was very happy and safely back in high camp for 14:30hrs.
All had an immensely successful and enjoyable Bolivian Climber expedition and the team shared some lasting memories and beautiful summits, all down happy and safe! The final meal in a delicious Indian restaurant in downtown La Paz is another story entirely…! To all the team, thank you for making a great trip and a wholeheartedly well done to all. Everyone worked really hard and it was a pleasure to share these summits with you. Keep safe in the hills and hope our paths cross again!
Tania Noakes
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