Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 10 Oct to 8 Nov 03

Written by Leader Sarah Adock, November 2003

This expedition experienced heavy snowfall at Mera Peak base camp and had to retreat over the Zatrawa La to approach Island Peak via the Khumbu valley. Despite this revised schedule, we managed to make a successful ascent of Island Peak, which our team was very satisfied with.

I joined the team in Tangnag (they had trekked in with a Mera Peak team – Ed) as arranged and we had an rest day here, spent washing and talking about what would happen higher up on Mera Peak. The next day saw all of us head to Dig Kharka, although only a short distance, it gave us more time to acclimatise. Another short walk the next day saw us in Khare, where most people relaxed and sorted kit out for the following day. This was our ‘Ecole de glace’ and our group thoroughly enjoyed the experience with most people commenting that they had learnt quite a bit.

Unfortunately, during the night, it started to snow and continued at a steady pace into the following day. Despite this, we kept to the plan and climbed over the Mera La to Mera Peak base camp. Everyone tried to keep in good spirits even though it looked like the weather was set to stay and we made a call on the Satellite phone to see what was forecast for the following afternoon. We awoke to about 2 foot of snow and it was still snowing steadily.

Lunchtime rolled by and we made the decision to descend, as it was too risky sit at base camp when the chances of being locked in were quite high. This proved true with a team of South Africans who at this point were at high camp on Mera. They had a difficult time descending in deep snow.

Upon reaching Khare we checked the weather report, which suggested that the bad weather would continue for at least another three days. Everyone was wet and cold, so we made the decision to leave for Tangnag. By now it was a matter of a plan ‘B’. Together with our Sirdar, Karma, I suggested heading back down the Hinku valley and then trekking up the Khumbu with the aim of climbing Island Peak. With the weather how it was, this was the best option for any chance of success. It would have been unrealistic to try and cross the Mera La again, descend into the Hongu valley and then tackle the Amphu Labtsa, the far side of which has some avalanche-prone slopes.

So thus we started our trek up the Khumbu, which was quite leisurely, with plenty of time to take in the spectacular views. On 2 November we left Island Peak high camp at 3:30a.m. and set off at a steady pace. There was one group of four people ahead of us and by the time we reached the summit ridge they were coming down. We made good time and were on the summit at 8:00a.m and able to enjoy the fantastic views alone.

Then it was back down the Khumbu valley and a chance to relax and enjoy the comfort of the many tea houses. We left Lukla without a hitch, arriving at the Summit Hotel and flying out the next day. All in all, we made the best of the weather and were very happy with our climb.

Sarah Adcock, November 2003 « Previous report | Next report »

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