Trip Reports

Bolivian Climber - 28 June to 19 July 2003

Written by Leader John Armstrong, August 2003

On our first evening we had an excellent meal in La Paz and the next day, a comprehensive tour of the city on foot. We knew that it had been a very dry season and consequently many mountain routes were very icy rather than snowy. Illimani was worst affected and there had been a fatal accident that week involving the loss of a guide and two clients. We decided that we would monitor the conditions and choose the best option closer to the time. During the next few days in Copacabana we enjoyed really good weather and everyone was acclimitising well. An industrial strike meant that we rescheduled our visit to the Island of the Sun, but this was not a problem and we were on schedule as we arrived at the base camp for Pequeno Alpamayo.

On the 8th of July, all the team summited on Pequeno Alpamayo (5,337m) in good style. Three days later, the entire group made it to the top of Huayna Potosi (6,094m) and then returned to La Paz for two nights and a rest. Conditions on Illimani had not improved and there had been a second fatal accident involving another guide and clients. We opted to avoid Illimani and instead, attempt Sajama, Bolvia's highest mountain. After a monotonous 6 hour drive, we reached Sajama village which proved to be a desolate, windswept place. After establishing a base camp, the following day all the team made the tortuous ascent up scree to high camp, which we had to construct on steep scree. Whilst some of us had contracted a bout of severe diahorrea and opted to stay at camp, the rest of the team made an 8 1/2 hour climb to the summit of Sajama (6,542m). It took a further 5 hours to return to high camp and then a further 3 hours to descend back to base camp. The summiteers reported significant penitentes and at least a hundred false summits [! - Ed] being sighted on this rounded mountain. After a night at base camp, a tired team returned to Sajama village and thence to La Paz for our last evening.

In conclusion, this was a very successful expedition with a great group who achieved two superb summits, the strongest also making the significantly arduous ascent of Sajama, Bolivia's highest peak.« Previous report | Next report »

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