Trip Reports

Kangchenjunga Circuit - October 2017

Approaching the mighty South Face of Kangchenjunga

Written by Leader Rob Wymer, November 2017

Wow - what a trek! Much as I like familiarity (albeit with different team members), the chance to go somewhere new in Nepal was an exciting prospect indeed for me, and the Kanchenjunga Circuit did not disappoint, in fact it’s blown me away.

A true adventure from beginning to end, new experiences every day, remote, challenging and immensely satisfying, this is certainly one for your bucket-list. Tucked in the far northeastern corner of Nepal, between Tibet and Sikkim, it’s an area still very much untrodden by tourists. Following international and domestic flights, we began our journey at Bhadrapur at the lofty elevation of 95m - easily the lowest I’ve ever been in Nepal! The Terai countryside here is very much of rice fields and bananas, really very hot and far removed from the usual mountainous picture we have of Nepal. Following good roads these days, we had a incredibly interesting day and a half of travel through this landscape at either end of the trek, the route rising and falling over ridges and bridges, stunning vistas of endless tea plantations and of enormous white mountains in the distance.

Initially the first week of the trek was through little Hindu farming villages of the Limbu people, seeking shade and glad of our sun-hats, camping on terraces at the edge of rice fields. We also seemed to be firmly in the land of the golden welly for some reason….. It was delightful walking, following and criss-crossing a river, sometimes right down beside it, the crashing and roaring of its progress almost deafening. At other times we were high above it, marvelling at the views and the sometimes airy walking.

A few days later, the valley widened out and we reached the larger village of Ghunsa at 3415m, and now obviously in Sherpa territory. Although we’d only been gently gaining height so far, it was very pleasant to take an acclimatisation day here, catching up with laundry, taking the opportunity to use the teahouse phone and even to send postcards! (anybody’s arrived yet gang?) From here onwards, we were swapping shorts for down jackets as the sun went down, and now it was great to feel really amongst the mountains as they towered above us over the following days. The day leaving Ghunsa was just magical: along through beautiful woods of golden larch and juniper, and up over the terminal moraine of the Kanchenjunga Glacier. As we climbed ever higher we finally got a good view of the shapely summit of Jannu 7711m, and passed the intimidating north face of Chang Himal 6802m (massive kudos to Bullock & Houseman for finding a way up THAT in 2009!). Eventually, after 11 days on foot, we reached the north Base Camp of Kanchenjunga, and our highest point on the trek at an impressive 5136m. The north face of this, the 3rd highest mountain in the world at 8586m, was a real treat to behold, and having a night camping there meant we could take some stunning photos both at dusk and dawn, capturing the mountain in all its glory. We’d seen no more than 5 other groups by this stage - just compare that with other more well-known areas!

But the journey wasn’t yet at an end, and after retracing our steps for a coupe of days, we puffed our way up and over 3 high passes in real big-sky country, to reach the southern side of the massif. Five days after leaving the north base camp we were aiming for the south face, and I have to say, the day we headed for south Base Camp ranks up there with any day I’ve had in the Himalayas. The surrounding mountains evoked an incredible mix of beauty and awe, and as we gazed at the south face, where the first ascent took place in 1955, there were huge smiles on our faces. We’d seen even fewer people on this side, and as we walked out, still with some big long days through fabulous scenery, we hardly encountered any other tourists whatsoever. Far from the walk-out being an anticlimax, right up until our final camp, we were marvelling every day at the interest and attractiveness of the trekking - and once more at the golden wellies too.

In case you hadn’t gathered by now, I’d highly recommend this trek; from start to finish, it’s easily one of the best in the world. It really is “A Complete Nepalese Adventure’.

My sincere thanks for their company and mutual support, and congratulations on their achievement go to Sue, Jerry, Mick, Ann & Alwyn, Bob, David, Edward, Kate and Diana.

In memory of Ken Robinson.

Rob Wymer

Jagged Globe Expedition Leader

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